Posts belonging to Category 'Air Conditioner Installation'

Sigh… yet one more new appliance

Question:

Lots of purrs and gentle hugs, — Polonca & Soncek

Well, I’ve alluded to the things that have happened to me over the past year but haven’t told anyone yet what they were so, for catharsis… 1. August, 2003 – lost a very good friend to suicide 2. August, 2003 – quit smoking 3. September, 2003 – lost my little Percy (rescued persian breeder) to renal failure: cost for treatment beforehand $2,500

<snip

Response:

Other, smaller disasters (the usual kind that goes with anyone’s life) were happening too, but these were the major problems – the things that completely wiped out our life’s savings and wiped me out emotionally.

I am so sorry, you’ve really had a bad year. Purrs for good things to start coming your way. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Response:

Thank you Polonca – the purrs that emanate from this group are very powerful!! Hugs, CatNipped

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Lots of purrs and gentle hugs, — Polonca & Soncek Well, I’ve alluded to the things that have happened to me over the past year but haven’t told anyone yet what they were so, for catharsis… 1. August, 2003 – lost a very good friend to suicide 2. August, 2003 – quit smoking 3. September, 2003 – lost my little Percy (rescued persian breeder) to renal failure: cost for treatment beforehand $2,500 <snip

Response:

Other, smaller disasters (the usual kind that goes with anyone’s life) were happening too, but these were the major problems – the things that completely wiped out our life’s savings and wiped me out emotionally. I am so sorry, you’ve really had a bad year. Purrs for good things to start coming your way. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Thank you Victor!  All the financial woes and material things were hard to deal with, but it was the loss of my three friends that put all the rest in perspective and made me realize what was important. I really appreciate the purrs – this group can be a most powerful source of good in the world and finding it again after all these years has helped tremendously in getting me back into living my life in joy without dwelling on the bad things that happen. Hugs, CatNipped

Response:

<snip 15. May, 2004 – the transmission in my car went out in car stranding me in the middle of I-610 in the middle of rush hour: cost for towing, rental car and transmission repair $4,000

I guess better 610 than the beltway?  -bonbon

Response:

Well, I’ve alluded to the things that have happened to me over the past year but haven’t told anyone yet what they were so, for catharsis…

<Snip bad year Hugs and purrs CatNipped, there is so much pain in the world, most of it hidden just below the surface. — Adrian (Owned by Snoopy & Bagheera) A house is not a home, without a cat.

Response:

So…. our dishwasher died. Kinda. It sprung a leak. Cheaper to get a new one, so we did. Got a great deal through employee discount on a GE discontinued model, about 40% off!!! We were able to get a fancy model for the price of a cheapo one. Bad news, delivery folks won’t install. Called plumber, they came and decided to take advantage of the fact that we had the delivery guy there and offered to uninstall the old one and install the new one for $350. I said, no thank you, I’ll do it myself. So we did. It only took two trips to Lowe’s, I’m very proud of ourselves… :)  Our weekend projects usually require at least 4 trips to the home improvement store to buy supplies… LOL! Anyhow, we have a spanking new dishwasher and the cats had a lot of fun with the box. Since we moved into this house in 2000 we’ve replaced the following: A/C unit, water heater for hot tub, washer, dryer, roof, and now the dishwasher. At least we now have nice appliances that should last us a very long time. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Response:

Wow, the nerve the ask $350 to install a dishwasher!  That seems really steep to me, but then again I’ve been living in Thailand for 3 1/2 years… Good deal on the new dishwasher though, it’s always great to get bargains.  And congrats on installing it yourself :-) I’m a DIY’er through and through, from a long family history of DIY’ers ;-)  I just wish I could fix my own car…grrr…my car’s been gone for 5 days for an aircon problem and I really, really, REALLY need it today.  I’m enormously stressed because today is my last day to get stuff done for our trip to Canada and I can’t even get a hold of the mechanic who has my car!  His cell phone is out of order and I have no idea where he is even located because he always comes to the house to pick the car up and brings the car back to the house :-( — Britta (stressed and bummed) Sandpaper kisses, a cuddle and a purr. I have an alarm clock that’s covered in fur! Check out pictures of Vino at: http://photos.yahoo.com/badwilson click on the Vino album

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So…. our dishwasher died. Kinda. It sprung a leak. Cheaper to get a new one, so we did. Got a great deal through employee discount on a GE discontinued model, about 40% off!!! We were able to get a fancy model for the price of a cheapo one. Bad news, delivery folks won’t install. Called plumber, they came and decided to take advantage of the fact that we had the delivery guy there and offered to uninstall the old one and install the new one for $350. I said, no thank you, I’ll do it myself. So we did. It only took two trips to Lowe’s, I’m very proud of ourselves… :)  Our weekend projects usually require at least 4 trips to the home improvement store to buy supplies… LOL! Anyhow, we have a spanking new dishwasher and the cats had a lot of fun with the box. Since we moved into this house in 2000 we’ve replaced the following: A/C unit, water heater for hot tub, washer, dryer, roof, and now the dishwasher. At least we now have nice appliances that should last us a very long time. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wow, the nerve the ask $350 to install a dishwasher!  That seems really steep to me, but then again I’ve been living in Thailand for 3 1/2 years… Good deal on the new dishwasher though, it’s always great to get bargains.  And congrats on installing it yourself :-) I’m a DIY’er through and through, from a long family history of DIY’ers ;-)  I just wish I could fix my own car…grrr…my car’s been gone for 5 days for an aircon problem and I really, really, REALLY need it today.  I’m enormously stressed because today is my last day to get stuff done for our trip to Canada and I can’t even get a hold of the mechanic who has my car!  His cell phone is out of order and I have no idea where he is even located because he always comes to the house to pick the car up and brings the car back to the house :-( — Britta (stressed and bummed) Sandpaper kisses, a cuddle and a purr. I have an alarm clock that’s covered in fur! Check out pictures of Vino at: http://photos.yahoo.com/badwilson click on the Vino album So…. our dishwasher died. Kinda. It sprung a leak. Cheaper to get a new one, so we did. Got a great deal through employee discount on a GE discontinued model, about 40% off!!! We were able to get a fancy model for the price of a cheapo one. Bad news, delivery folks won’t install. Called plumber, they came and decided to take advantage of the fact that we had the delivery guy there and offered to uninstall the old one and install the new one for $350. I said, no thank you, I’ll do it myself. So we did. It only took two trips to Lowe’s, I’m very proud of ourselves… :)  Our weekend projects usually require at least 4 trips to the home improvement store to buy supplies… LOL! Anyhow, we have a spanking new dishwasher and the cats had a lot of fun with the box. Since we moved into this house in 2000 we’ve replaced the following: A/C unit, water heater for hot tub, washer, dryer, roof, and now the dishwasher. At least we now have nice appliances that should last us a very long time. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Our dishwasher died too and has been replaced with a bright new model. Was a bit mean with the cats though – the man who delivered it was given the box to take away and dispose of, ditto with the old washer.   The new one makes little noise, unlike the other which sounded something like Niagara Falls.  We didn’t need to get ours installed as it is a free standing model and simply has to be attached to a couple of tubes. Bev — The email of the species is more deadly than the mail.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So…. our dishwasher died. Kinda. It sprung a leak. Cheaper to get a new one, so we did. Got a great deal through employee discount on a GE discontinued model, about 40% off!!! We were able to get a fancy model for the price of a cheapo one. Bad news, delivery folks won’t install. Called plumber, they came and decided to take advantage of the fact that we had the delivery guy there and offered to uninstall the old one and install the new one for $350. I said, no thank you, I’ll do it myself. So we did. It only took two trips to Lowe’s, I’m very proud of ourselves… :)  Our weekend projects usually require at least 4 trips to the home improvement store to buy supplies… LOL! Anyhow, we have a spanking new dishwasher and the cats had a lot of fun with the box. Since we moved into this house in 2000 we’ve replaced the following: A/C unit, water heater for hot tub, washer, dryer, roof, and now the dishwasher. At least we now have nice appliances that should last us a very long time.

Whoa, I’m impressed that you installed it yourselves, though given what the plumber was going to charge I might have tried it too. Congrats! —— Krista

Response:

Called plumber, they came and decided to take advantage of the fact that we had the delivery guy there and offered to uninstall the old one and install the new one for $350.

Good grief! A total rip-off. You could have flown Vernon over for cheaper than that & he’d have done it for you ;-) I am grateful I have my own personal enginner who can fix anything around the house. Cheers, helen s –This is an invalid email address to avoid spam– to get correct one remove fame & fortune –Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off–

Response:

I’m impressed you got your dishwasher installed yourself!  But as far as repairs go, I shuddered when I read the roof part (we’re going to need that at some point — we have a shake shingle roof at 30+ years old). Christine

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So…. our dishwasher died. Kinda. It sprung a leak. Cheaper to get a new one, so we did. Got a great deal through employee discount on a GE discontinued model, about 40% off!!! We were able to get a fancy model for the price of a cheapo one. Bad news, delivery folks won’t install. Called plumber, they came and decided to take advantage of the fact that we had the delivery guy there and offered to uninstall the old one and install the new one for $350. I said, no thank you, I’ll do it myself. So we did. It only took two trips to Lowe’s, I’m very proud of ourselves… :)  Our weekend projects usually require at least 4 trips to the home improvement store to buy supplies… LOL! Anyhow, we have a spanking new dishwasher and the cats had a lot of fun with the box. Since we moved into this house in 2000 we’ve replaced the following: A/C unit, water heater for hot tub, washer, dryer, roof, and now the dishwasher. At least we now have nice appliances that should last us a very long time. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Response:

I’m impressed you got your dishwasher installed yourself!  But as far as repairs go, I shuddered when I read the roof part (we’re going to need that at some point — we have a shake shingle roof at 30+ years old). Christine

Well, roofing is expensive, and doing it yourself is a holy nightmare. BUT. A crew of tanned roofers, sans shirts, and with or without tatoos, can be real eye candy. (Just trying to find a silver lining for you :) Sherry Sherry

Response:

Congrats! You should be proud of yourselves! Best wishes, — Polonca & Soncek

<snip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Since we moved into this house in 2000 we’ve replaced the following: A/C unit, water heater for hot tub, washer, dryer, roof, and now the dishwasher. At least we now have nice appliances that should last us a very long time. — Victor Martinez Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)

Response:

I’m impressed you got your dishwasher installed yourself!  But as far as repairs go, I shuddered when I read the roof part (we’re going to need that at some point — we have a shake shingle roof at 30+ years old). Christine Well, roofing is expensive, and doing it yourself is a holy nightmare. BUT. A crew of tanned roofers, sans shirts, and with or without tatoos, can be real eye candy. (Just trying to find a silver lining for you :)

Unless they are the overweight, Budweiser-drinking, hair-on-their-backs, can’t-keep-their-pants-from-slipping-in-the-back breed, it would be nice. Especially if you have a large (& nice enough) yard to sit in and enjoy the view. — The ONE and ONLY lefthanded-pathetic-paranoid-psychotic-sarcastic-wiseass-ditzy former-blonde in Bloomington! (And proud of it, too)

Underground tunnels keep buildings warm in winter , cool in summer

Question:

        As the temp rises steeply the deeper you go , maybe in America the narrow tunnels might have to be thirty meters deep , isnginificant really and the payback time even in high latitudes is less than five years !!! In India of course its six months .

Fucking imbecile.  Learn the difference between temperature and heat. [snip] — Uncle Al http://www.mazepath.com/uncleal/  (Toxic URL! Unsafe for children and most mammals) "Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?"  The Net!

Response:

Below the frost line, the temperature of the earth in Nebraska stays fairly constant at 55

Need to replace central A/C

Question:

You might want to ask around a little more.  Does your A/C work, but it is just causes a water leak that is coming through the ceiling?  If the A/C is working, it doesn’t seem that you need a new system or that the refrigerant (used to be called "freon") is leaking.  Is it possible that it’s just that little condensate pump that is overflowing and leaking? — looks like a little 8"-by-8" black box with a plastic pipe coming out of the top. If the A/C is still working, it’s probably a simple and inexpensive repair job, not a replace-the-whole-thing job.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I just learned that I will have the replace the central A/C in my two-floor house. The unit is about 10-year old, and yesterday night I noticed a fairly large stain in the ceiling of a bedroom. I checked above it (where the internal "piece" of the A/C is) and there was water underneath it. This "piece" (I don’t know what exactly it is) lies just next to the gas heating system. I must say I don’t know anything about A/C systems. I bought the house one year ago, and I am Italian, and nobody (more or less) has central A/C in Italian homes! Today I called a contractor (which apparently has been in the business for about 30 years), and he confirms there is a serious leak. He also found one in the external unit, which is also a bit rusty. He checked with a "weird" tool that started beeping like hell when a leak was found. He thinks I should replace the whole thing (without being pushy about it), and gave me a quote of $3800 including taxes, installation, two years of free service, a 10-year labor and parts warrantee, and a programmable digital thermostat. I think it’s a 12 SEER, but didn’t ask the brand. I am asking around, and I sort of understand that the cost sounds reasonable, for this kind of job, but I would really appreciate any advice on the matter. Should I ask for other quotes? I live in Durham (North Carolina). Thanks a lot for any information anyone can give me! Have a great day, Alessandro Tarozzi

Response:

Also, check out the post above by "FE" with the subject heading, "Upstairs AC Unit Drip Pan Problem".  "FE" has a leak coming through the ceiling and it sure doesn’t sound like he/she needs a whole new A/C system.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I just learned that I will have the replace the central A/C in my two-floor house. The unit is about 10-year old, and yesterday night I noticed a fairly large stain in the ceiling of a bedroom. I checked above it (where the internal "piece" of the A/C is) and there was water underneath it. This "piece" (I don’t know what exactly it is) lies just next to the gas heating system. I must say I don’t know anything about A/C systems. I bought the house one year ago, and I am Italian, and nobody (more or less) has central A/C in Italian homes! Today I called a contractor (which apparently has been in the business for about 30 years), and he confirms there is a serious leak. He also found one in the external unit, which is also a bit rusty. He checked with a "weird" tool that started beeping like hell when a leak was found. He thinks I should replace the whole thing (without being pushy about it), and gave me a quote of $3800 including taxes, installation, two years of free service, a 10-year labor and parts warrantee, and a programmable digital thermostat. I think it’s a 12 SEER, but didn’t ask the brand. I am asking around, and I sort of understand that the cost sounds reasonable, for this kind of job, but I would really appreciate any advice on the matter. Should I ask for other quotes? I live in Durham (North Carolina). Thanks a lot for any information anyone can give me! Have a great day, Alessandro Tarozzi

Response:

you should get a good repair  man out,  water leaking does not mean  you need a new unit, it is probably a cloged drain or something else

Response:

Hello! I just learned that I will have the replace the central A/C in my two-floor house. The unit is about 10-year old, and yesterday night I noticed a fairly large stain in the ceiling of a bedroom. I checked above it (where the internal "piece" of the A/C is) and there was water underneath it. This "piece" (I don’t know what exactly it is) lies just next to the gas heating system.

The water is condensation from the A/C evaporator coil which is located in the air handler (that "piece").  The evaporator coil condenses the moisture from the air. This coil is designed to allow the moisture to drip into a pan. There should be a drain coming from the air handler (probably made out of white PVC plastic) that drains the water outside. The PVC line can become clogged with algae and muck and needs to be blown or flushed out from time to time.  In some installations there will be a second ’safety pan’ under the air handler, and that second pan should have a float switch that turns off the A/C when the safety pan gets full.  It sounds like you don’t have the safety pan and switch.  In any case, you might want to find the end of the line outside and take a water hose and flush out the line from the outside. You must be careful if you do this procedure. You can flood the pan and cause further water damage. If this procedure doesn’t let the condensate water drain out then you need to call a professional back.    Most likely that drain is plugged. Today I called a contractor (which apparently has been in the business for about 30 years), and he confirms there is a serious leak. He also found one in the external unit, which is also a bit rusty. He checked with a "weird" tool that started beeping like hell when a leak was found. He thinks I should replace the whole thing (without being pushy about it), and gave me a quote of $3800 including taxes, installation, two years of free service, a 10-year labor and parts warrantee, and a programmable digital thermostat. I think it’s a 12 SEER, but didn’t ask the brand.

The beeping is probably from a refrigerant leak detector.  This of course is a different ‘leak’ than the one that is staining your ceiling. If your evaporator coil is leaking that is a bad sign, and probably means that a replacement system is in order.  If your current system is over 12 years old then you should think about replacing it. It is very hard to give an opinion on pricing over the internet – there are too many variables.  However, if I were you I’d first see if I can fix the plugged drain myself.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So if you have water dripping from your A/C onto your ceiling, that means probably that the water removal/drain pipe somewhere is broke, leaking etc. Try to find from where the leak comes. You may be able to fix it yourself by just using silicone tape or regluing some PVC pipes or something simple. It is worth checking it out. The unit in his ceiling that is dripping is a heat exchanger.  It may be icing up, or the drain line may be plugged.  If it is icing up, that may be a sign of low coolant.   The leak in the outside unit that your contractor found is probably a leak of the cooling agent that circulates between the outside and inside unit. That may be a serious issue or perhaps can be repaired quickly. But at any rate it should be done by the professional. It’s pretty obvious that this guy is clueless, but if the old system is over a dozen years old, installing a whole new system may be a real good idea.  By the time they locate and patch a coolant leak, clean the coils in the attic and flush or repair the drain, he is going to have a several hundred dollar repair bill.  He is going to pay his money for an old, inefficient system that is near the end of its operating life.  If it is an old freon system, just recharging it can be pretty expensive.   "Yeah, $3200 for a new system, but for only $600 I can put you in old system that just sprung a leak for some reason.  It might run for several years yet, or maybe not.  No guarantees."  Would you buy it? The contractor that showed up sounds like he proposed a good long term solution to the problem.  This is not the time of year that you want your AC to quit working entirely.  It’s time to get three bids and go for it.

You are suggesting to him to do a big repair based on very little evidence. So what if AC breaks. We had our A/C break in 96 degree weather. No big deal. Just use ceiling fans and common sense. i

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Travis Jordan writes: The beeping is probably from a refrigerant leak detector.  This of course is a different ‘leak’ than the one that is staining your ceiling. If your evaporator coil is leaking that is a bad sign, and probably means that a replacement system is in order.  If your current system is over 12 years old then you should think about replacing it. The operator can make the leak detector howl without any leak, if he cares to.  This is a great way to sell big jobs to suckers, like selling brake jobs to biddies.  A little common sense and asking for a detailed demonstration of the leak will stop most of such casual trickery, though.   Even "honest" guys do this, as detecting leaks is fraught with false- negative and false-positive squeals. The safest method, short of being a testing expert yourself, is to have at least one other tradesman do an independent check.  They love to prove the other guy was wrong.

I own several leak detectors (military surplus, too lazy to sell them on ebay but need to) and yes, by pressing a button, you can make them beep. I recently had an AC professional try to sell me a job that I did not need. i

Response:

So if you have water dripping from your A/C onto your ceiling, that means probably that the water removal/drain pipe somewhere is broke, leaking etc. Try to find from where the leak comes. You may be able to fix it yourself by just using silicone tape or regluing some PVC pipes or something simple. It is worth checking it out.

The unit in his ceiling that is dripping is a heat exchanger.  It may be icing up, or the drain line may be plugged.  If it is icing up, that may be a sign of low coolant.   The leak in the outside unit that your contractor found is probably a leak of the cooling agent that circulates between the outside and inside unit. That may be a serious issue or perhaps can be repaired quickly. But at any rate it should be done by the professional.

It’s pretty obvious that this guy is clueless, but if the old system is over a dozen years old, installing a whole new system may be a real good idea.  By the time they locate and patch a coolant leak, clean the coils in the attic and flush or repair the drain, he is going to have a several hundred dollar repair bill.  He is going to pay his money for an old, inefficient system that is near the end of its operating life.  If it is an old freon system, just recharging it can be pretty expensive.   "Yeah, $3200 for a new system, but for only $600 I can put you in old system that just sprung a leak for some reason.  It might run for several years yet, or maybe not.  No guarantees."  Would you buy it? The contractor that showed up sounds like he proposed a good long term solution to the problem.  This is not the time of year that you want your AC to quit working entirely.  It’s time to get three bids and go for it. — http://home.teleport.com/~larryc

Response:

The operator can make the leak detector howl without any leak, if he cares to.  This is a great way to sell big jobs to suckers, like selling brake jobs to biddies.  A little common sense and asking for a detailed demonstration of the leak will stop most of such casual trickery, though. Even "honest" guys do this, as detecting leaks is fraught with false- negative and false-positive squeals. The safest method, short of being a testing expert yourself, is to have at least one other tradesman do an independent check.  They love to prove the other guy was wrong.

An excellent suggestion – and one that I should have made myself. Thanks.

Response:

Travis Jordan writes: The beeping is probably from a refrigerant leak detector.  This of course is a different ‘leak’ than the one that is staining your ceiling. If your evaporator coil is leaking that is a bad sign, and probably means that a replacement system is in order.  If your current system is over 12 years old then you should think about replacing it.

The operator can make the leak detector howl without any leak, if he cares to.  This is a great way to sell big jobs to suckers, like selling brake jobs to biddies.  A little common sense and asking for a detailed demonstration of the leak will stop most of such casual trickery, though.   Even "honest" guys do this, as detecting leaks is fraught with false- negative and false-positive squeals. The safest method, short of being a testing expert yourself, is to have at least one other tradesman do an independent check.  They love to prove the other guy was wrong.

Response:

Hello! I just learned that I will have the replace the central A/C in my two-floor house. The unit is about 10-year old, and yesterday night I noticed a fairly large stain in the ceiling of a bedroom. I checked above it (where the internal "piece" of the A/C is) and there was water underneath it. This "piece" (I don’t know what exactly it is) lies just next to the gas heating system. I must say I don’t know anything about A/C systems. I bought the house one year ago, and I am Italian, and nobody (more or less) has central A/C in Italian homes! Today I called a contractor (which apparently has been in the business for about 30 years), and he confirms there is a serious leak. He also found one in the external unit, which is also a bit rusty. He checked with a "weird" tool that started beeping like hell when a leak was found. He thinks I should replace the whole thing (without being pushy about it), and gave me a quote of $3800 including taxes, installation, two years of free service, a 10-year labor and parts warrantee, and a programmable digital thermostat. I think it’s a 12 SEER, but didn’t ask the brand. I am asking around, and I sort of understand that the cost sounds reasonable, for this kind of job, but I would really appreciate any advice on the matter. Should I ask for other quotes? I live in Durham (North Carolina). Thanks a lot for any information anyone can give me! Have a great day, Alessandro Tarozzi

Response:

Before doing anything, try to read a little about air conditioners, how they work, and what can go wrong in them. An A/C recently broke in my house. I spent a little bit of time trying to figure things out. Then a contractor came in and proposed a repair that was unnecessary, but expensive. I knew it because I did a bit of investigation myself. I decided not to hire him. Then another one came in and he made a correct diagnosis and a much cheaper repair. So trying to learn a little bit helps. Any air conditioner involves inside (house) air passing over a very cold heat exchanger. (called evaporator). When air is cooled rapidly, the moisture that is in it, condensates. It is the same as the water you see on grass every morning — it is condensate. Any A/C generates condensate water and then it needs to be somehow removed. In most homes, it drains into the sewer if the A/C is central, and outside if it is a window unit. So if you have water dripping from your A/C onto your ceiling, that means probably that the water removal/drain pipe somewhere is broke, leaking etc. Try to find from where the leak comes. You may be able to fix it yourself by just using silicone tape or regluing some PVC pipes or something simple. It is worth checking it out. The leak in the outside unit that your contractor found is probably a leak of the cooling agent that circulates between the outside and inside unit. That may be a serious issue or perhaps can be repaired quickly. But at any rate it should be done by the professional. Do not be in a hurry and do not feel rushed into any decision. You will be very sorry later if you run blindly right now. Take care of the water leak quickly or you may develop toxic mold that likes to live on damp drywall. i – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello! I just learned that I will have the replace the central A/C in my two-floor house. The unit is about 10-year old, and yesterday night I noticed a fairly large stain in the ceiling of a bedroom. I checked above it (where the internal "piece" of the A/C is) and there was water underneath it. This "piece" (I don’t know what exactly it is) lies just next to the gas heating system. I must say I don’t know anything about A/C systems. I bought the house one year ago, and I am Italian, and nobody (more or less) has central A/C in Italian homes! Today I called a contractor (which apparently has been in the business for about 30 years), and he confirms there is a serious leak. He also found one in the external unit, which is also a bit rusty. He checked with a "weird" tool that started beeping like hell when a leak was found. He thinks I should replace the whole thing (without being pushy about it), and gave me a quote of $3800 including taxes, installation, two years of free service, a 10-year labor and parts warrantee, and a programmable digital thermostat. I think it’s a 12 SEER, but didn’t ask the brand. I am asking around, and I sort of understand that the cost sounds reasonable, for this kind of job, but I would really appreciate any advice on the matter. Should I ask for other quotes? I live in Durham (North Carolina). Thanks a lot for any information anyone can give me! Have a great day, Alessandro Tarozzi

Response:

Problem with in-wall air conditioner

Question:

The Whirlpool AC in question will run for several hours, and then gradually stop cooling.  Nine hours later or so, it won’t cool at all.  I turn off the AC, and I hear what sounds like ice melting inside. Once the system has set for a few hours, it will be OK.  The AC also nerver turns itself off, it just goes full blast until it freezes.  Is this the thermostat?  Any ideas?

I have had that problem with my 25K btu thru-the-wall unit.  I found that if I leave it on "power-saver" it’ll frost over and eventually pop the breaker.  I called Sears (it’s a Sears unit) ~eight years ago to see if there wrong with the unit.  They said the compressor was bad and that it would cost more to replace it than a new unit was worth. I found that if I leave the fan on all the time there is no ice build- up (perhaps it melts between cycles).  It’s been working that way for the past eight years. When it doesn’t work, I’ll replace it. —   Keith

Response:

"Charles Chips" wrote The Whirlpool AC in question will run for several hours, and  then gradually stop cooling.  Nine hours later or so, it won’t cool at all. I turn off the AC, and I hear what sounds like ice melting inside. Once the system has set for a few hours, it will be OK.  The AC also nerver turns itself off, it just goes full blast until it freezes. Is this the thermostat?  Any ideas? This is Turtle. Turn the thermostat to mid scale turn fan to high setting, and clean thefilter and run it. If it still freezes up. You have a plugged up evaperator coil , stuck thermostat, or low of freon. It just sound like a ditry filter to me but could be a stuck thermostat. I can’t see it from here.

If the evaporator (cooling) coil is frosting over totally, it could also be that it is just too cold inside OR outside to run the air conditioner (like often happens at night). If either inside or outside temperature drops much below 65

Payback on New HVAC

Question:

We dont "judge" the efficiency….we tell you the rating on the unit….its there.. Good point. I don’t know much about gas, but wouldn’t 60% be awfully low for a 20 year old gas fired unit ? My 20 year old oil unit is rated at 78%, and I always thought of oil as much less efficient. Bob

This is Turtle. I can remember bidding and getting a job required by General contractor the afue was to be 71% afue and nothing less. They did make lesser afue at the time. Don’t ask me what years that was. TURTLE

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Just curious. Anyone ever meet someone who could judge the efficiency of an old furnace? Besides the guy selling a new furnace.

Response:

Yes, simple, you look at the rating plates and do the math. Not that difficult! kjpro

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks Just curious. Anyone ever meet someone who could judge the efficiency of an old furnace? Besides the guy selling a new furnace.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks Just curious. Anyone ever meet someone who could judge the efficiency of an old furnace? Besides the guy selling a new furnace.

Hi…nice to meet you… Now you have met someone that can…. Its a very easy thing to do…you read the plate that tells the rating, and then you tell the homeowner…its quite simple. The rating might not, and probably never will be as simple as "This is a X brand 80% furnace" But it is there, and its nothing but a bit of simple math….failing that, you get the model and serial and look it up. We dont "judge" the efficiency….we tell you the rating on the unit….its there..

Response:

I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

This is turtle. I can not tell you what your saving will be but I can give you info to try to calculate your savings. Now this would be generally speaking and to get exact yopu will have to go to some of the website that get down to the real point. First Cooling cost saving is like this. You have 6 seer and you go to a 12 seer. This is how it goes. for every seer you go up you save 10% less electrcity use. So going from a 6 seer to a 12 seer your should save about 60% less electricity to operate the equipment. This 60% is the percent of your electric use of only the cooling system and not you whole electric bill. .60 X Electric equipment use only = savings on a 6 seer going to a 12 seer. Second Heating cost of going from a 60% aflue gas furnace to a 94% aflue gas furnace will be a 34% savings of only the natural gas / fuel use of the furnace. This will be .34 X Fuel cost only of furnace = savings on a 60% aflue to a 94% aflue furnace. These are general calculations and should be take so. Do the math yourself ! TURTLE

Response:

I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Response:

Dear Wade "Bozo", Just kidding….. Hello, did you read my comment on this thread? Re: electrical wiring in Well as to your question. Where about do you live??? As far as months heating vers months cooling?? Average temps hi and low??? For example the pay-off of a better cooling unit in Florida vers a better furnace in Alaska. And the difference in the price of the units. Not everybody prices the same differences in every home. Do to installation differences. or $500.00 Example : you have a 60 % now 40% ($400) going to waste, New 92% saving of 32% ($320) per year. $320 per yr at 5 yrs. = $1600.00 But at a different location may only use $500.00 a year so you’d save $160.00 per year. $160 per yr at 5 yrs. =$800.00 So, pay off would be different. Price difference between 80 ver 90 %. 10% difference figure out how many yrs. it would take to pay the difference in units. kjpro

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Response:

I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Based on some recent HVAC work at my house, those sound like reasonable values. TB

Response:

Pricing for Air Conditioner Installation?

Question:

Hi, all– When we bought our house a few years ago, the previous owner had installed a two-zone gas heating system (one 75K BTU unit for the first floor and one 75K BTU unit for the second).  She (the previous owner) couldn’t afford to have central air installed at the same time, so she had it set up this way as a sort of "half-way measure." We’d like to go ahead and get the a/c units installed (approx. 24K BTU for the first floor and 30K BTU for the second). We’ve got some contractors coming out over the next week to do some pricing, but I was curious if anybody had even a ballpark figure for what this kind of work might cost.  (e.g. is it likely to be in the $2000-3000 range or the $8000-9000 range?)  We realize that there will be specific variables and that the contractors will give us some firm pricing–we just don’t have any feel for what something like this might go for and want to start figuring out how we’ll likely pay for it. Thanks! –VF

Response:

VF, I had a similar situation, here are the particulars for your comparison: 2,550 sq ft, 2 story house, two gas heating forced-air systems (one up, the other down).  In 1998 had A/C installed, a three-ton unit for the downstairs and a 2.5-ton unit for upstairs.  Best $5,000 I ever spent.  Sleep under a quilt in August. I live in the SF Bay area. – The Cryin’ Kid

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, all– When we bought our house a few years ago, the previous owner had installed a two-zone gas heating system (one 75K BTU unit for the first floor and one 75K BTU unit for the second).  She (the previous owner) couldn’t afford to have central air installed at the same time, so she had it set up this way as a sort of "half-way measure." We’d like to go ahead and get the a/c units installed (approx. 24K BTU for the first floor and 30K BTU for the second). We’ve got some contractors coming out over the next week to do some pricing, but I was curious if anybody had even a ballpark figure for what this kind of work might cost.  (e.g. is it likely to be in the $2000-3000 range or the $8000-9000 range?)  We realize that there will be specific variables and that the contractors will give us some firm pricing–we just don’t have any feel for what something like this might go for and want to start figuring out how we’ll likely pay for it. Thanks! –VF

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When we bought our house a few years ago, the previous owner had installed a two-zone gas heating system (one 75K BTU unit for the first floor and one 75K BTU unit for the second).  She (the previous owner) couldn’t afford to have central air installed at the same time, so she had it set up this way as a sort of "half-way measure." We’d like to go ahead and get the a/c units installed (approx. 24K BTU for the first floor and 30K BTU for the second). We’ve got some contractors coming out over the next week to do some pricing, but I was curious if anybody had even a ballpark figure for what this kind of work might cost.  (e.g. is it likely to be in the $2000-3000 range or the $8000-9000 range?)  We realize that there will be specific variables and that the contractors will give us some firm pricing–we just don’t have any feel for what something like this might go for and want to start figuring out how we’ll likely pay for it.

Is your heat FHA, so you already have ducts? or is it FHW so you need ducts run? When we did our last house, a typical 2000+ sqft colonial, it was just over $4000 per floor for a complete system. We had FHW so that included putting ducts in and an air handler/blower. Also, we just did our upper floor. Since cool air sinks, it kept the downstairs reasonably cool and dry without having to spend that second $4000. — M/S ZKO3-3/U14 Nashua, NH    03062-2698                (603)-884-1294

Response:

Is your heat FHA, so you already have ducts? or is it FHW so you need ducts run? When we did our last house, a typical 2000+ sqft colonial, it was just over $4000 per floor for a complete system. We had FHW so that included putting ducts in and an air handler/blower. Also, we just did our upper floor. Since cool air sinks, it kept the downstairs reasonably cool and dry without having to spend that second $4000.

Thanks, Andrew, for your pricing–it’s right in line with what we’re going with, which is about $9500 for both floors.  And thanks, Kid, for your response as well!  Sorry to take so long getting back to you–I was away from my computer for Thanksgiving.  Hope you both had good ones. –VF

Response:

If you are going to get any work done, now is the time. Went to a meeting of dealers in the area today, and this upcoming year, is the year of slams in pricing. Some units will go up as much as $1400 WHOLESALE, so you better believe that the consumer will feel it after Jan 1, 2003. York went up Oct 1st of this year. While the prices were not that high, they held back on teh higher markups till Jan. I talked to a Carrier and Trane guy today, and they have been informed, according to what I was told, the same thing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is your heat FHA, so you already have ducts? or is it FHW so you need ducts run? When we did our last house, a typical 2000+ sqft colonial, it was just over $4000 per floor for a complete system. We had FHW so that included putting ducts in and an air handler/blower. Also, we just did our upper floor. Since cool air sinks, it kept the downstairs reasonably cool and dry without having to spend that second $4000. Thanks, Andrew, for your pricing–it’s right in line with what we’re going with, which is about $9500 for both floors.  And thanks, Kid, for your response as well!  Sorry to take so long getting back to you–I was away from my computer for Thanksgiving.  Hope you both had good ones. –VF

Response:

Furnace/Heat Pump Recommendation?

Question:

The home I live in has a geo-thermal (or water-to-air) heat pump.  I love it! I have a hair salon in my home, and my heating/cooling bills are still far cheaper than my neighbors!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My old creaky natural gas-powered air conditioner just barely made it through the summer and is now dead. Our furnace (gas) is very old as well, so we’re going to replace both at the same time, probably this spring if the furnace gods are willing to get us that far. I have some estimates from companies for Heil, Amana, Carrier, and York International equipment. Can anyone give me any idea of the quality of these brands? It sounds like a 92% efficient, 2-stage (is that worth the expense?) 75,000 BTU furnace and 10 or 12 seer 2.5 ton AC are right for us. We’re in the central PA area (on the turnpike near Harrisburg). Thanks in advance!

Response:

This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. If the above holds true, then given a hypothetical situation in which the best installer in the world hooked up all brands of furnaces which would operate under identical enviornmental conditions, failure rates would be completely random, without regard to brand/model, correct?

That IS correct, since all the parts in ANY unit, other than parts that are propriatary for a particular brand, are all the same. The parts used to control a Carrier, might be used in a Goodman…and vice versa. I can see the wisdom in recommending that the gentleman get the very best installation possible. What I find hard to believe is that name, or brand means ‘nothing’.

Ok..consider this.. Trane…Nothing Runs like a Trane… Nothing derails like one either. While Trane has excellent marketing, real world useage can tell you some horror stories only seen on that brand.. Propriatary controls, made by Honeywell, ONLY for Trane, with a slight change over the OEM part on any other unit, jacks the price to about 4X the other part, and, can only be gotten from a Trane dealer, unless, you know a dealer that does not mind buying FROM a Trane dealer, and then, MARKING the part up AGAIN… I tell you..I remove as many Rheem/Ruud units, as I do American Standard/Trane, and many Carriers…and I am sure that many Carrier dealers remove many Yorks too…however, as far as in the field work, I love Trane and Rheem…they are great for the service end…really. We love them because the retail price on parts is incredibly high compared to others… If brand means nothing, find the unit with the very cheapest price…. and get the very best contactor you can find to install it.  If you take this approach, and brand name means nothing, you should see no difference if that very best contractor installs  the bargain basement model instead of a Trane or a York.

Thats basically what I said…and the reason is due to the fact that if you open up a Goodman for example, and compare it with a York, Carrier, Trane….Heil…….etc…or any of the brands that they also make, you will find that other than the style of control board, that uses the SAME relays and reistors as any other brand, they all use the same brands of controls, and other than the Climatuff compressor used in Tranes units, many of the brands interchange compressor makes….so..yes…they ALL ARE about the same today. Its not like 20 years ago..life expectancy IS built into a unit…THEY DO want it to fail at some time…and that goes for any company… However, there are some areas where name DOES mean something….and thats in thermostats… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Now Sir, I’ll tip my hat to you… This is without a doubt the *best* explanation I’ve seen of what is on the market at this point in time. I think this response will help Bill, and myself decide which brands to stay away from. I’ve seen the question posted here in the past along the lines of ‘is Trane worth the extra money’. The response has always been ‘get the best installer you can’. I think the above make sense.  However, it seems to me that advice should be followed by a ‘no’, Trane is not worth the extra money (the installs being equal). Many of us live in areas where we have access to very good information regarding installers. We can choose a very good installer by reading consumer reviews. We have a harder time finding literature on the hardware. Thank you for your honesty.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. If the above holds true, then given a hypothetical situation in which the best installer in the world hooked up all brands of furnaces which would operate under identical enviornmental conditions, failure rates would be completely random, without regard to brand/model, correct? That IS correct, since all the parts in ANY unit, other than parts that are propriatary for a particular brand, are all the same. The parts used to control a Carrier, might be used in a Goodman…and vice versa. I can see the wisdom in recommending that the gentleman get the very best installation possible. What I find hard to believe is that name, or brand means ‘nothing’. Ok..consider this.. Trane…Nothing Runs like a Trane… Nothing derails like one either. While Trane has excellent marketing, real world useage can tell you some horror stories only seen on that brand.. Propriatary controls, made by Honeywell, ONLY for Trane, with a slight change over the OEM part on any other unit, jacks the price to about 4X the other part, and, can only be gotten from a Trane dealer, unless, you know a dealer that does not mind buying FROM a Trane dealer, and then, MARKING the part up AGAIN… I tell you..I remove as many Rheem/Ruud units, as I do American Standard/Trane, and many Carriers…and I am sure that many Carrier dealers remove many Yorks too…however, as far as in the field work, I love Trane and Rheem…they are great for the service end…really. We love them because the retail price on parts is incredibly high compared to others… If brand means nothing, find the unit with the very cheapest price…. and get the very best contactor you can find to install it.  If you take this approach, and brand name means nothing, you should see no difference if that very best contractor installs  the bargain basement model instead of a Trane or a York. Thats basically what I said…and the reason is due to the fact that if you open up a Goodman for example, and compare it with a York, Carrier, Trane….Heil…….etc…or any of the brands that they also make, you will find that other than the style of control board, that uses the SAME relays and reistors as any other brand, they all use the same brands of controls, and other than the Climatuff compressor used in Tranes units, many of the brands interchange compressor makes….so..yes…they ALL ARE about the same today. Its not like 20 years ago..life expectancy IS built into a unit…THEY DO want it to fail at some time…and that goes for any company… However, there are some areas where name DOES mean something….and thats in thermostats…

Response:

Where can I find info on the installers in the area? You mentioned something about ‘consumer reviews’. I supposed I’ll check around to see if there are any web sites. I’m in the Harrisburg, PA area.

Call the local supply houses for HVAC…while they wont give you prices…they wont sell to you..they WILL give you some names of people and companies to call…they deal with those guys more in a day than most do in a year, so they know who is doing what.. And I think CBHvac said something about the thermostats being a differentiator – which of *those* are better, since you are hinting there is a difference?

Honeywell, or White Rodgers…thats all you need to look into….if you do that, you will save alot of frustration, and heartache.. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – TIA! Now Sir, I’ll tip my hat to you… This is without a doubt the *best* explanation I’ve seen of what is on the market at this point in time. I think this response will help Bill, and myself decide which brands to stay away from. I’ve seen the question posted here in the past along the lines of ‘is Trane worth the extra money’. The response has always been ‘get the best installer you can’. I think the above make sense.  However, it seems to me that advice should be followed by a ‘no’, Trane is not worth the extra money (the installs being equal). Many of us live in areas where we have access to very good information regarding installers. We can choose a very good installer by reading consumer reviews. We have a harder time finding literature on the hardware. Thank you for your honesty. message This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. If the above holds true, then given a hypothetical situation in which the best installer in the world hooked up all brands of furnaces which would operate under identical enviornmental conditions, failure rates would be completely random, without regard to brand/model, correct? That IS correct, since all the parts in ANY unit, other than parts that are propriatary for a particular brand, are all the same. The parts used to control a Carrier, might be used in a Goodman…and vice versa.

Response:

Where can I find info on the installers in the area? You mentioned something about ‘consumer reviews’. I supposed I’ll check around to see if there are any web sites. I’m in the Harrisburg, PA area. And I think CBHvac said something about the thermostats being a differentiator – which of *those* are better, since you are hinting there is a difference? TIA! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now Sir, I’ll tip my hat to you… This is without a doubt the *best* explanation I’ve seen of what is on the market at this point in time. I think this response will help Bill, and myself decide which brands to stay away from. I’ve seen the question posted here in the past along the lines of ‘is Trane worth the extra money’. The response has always been ‘get the best installer you can’. I think the above make sense.  However, it seems to me that advice should be followed by a ‘no’, Trane is not worth the extra money (the installs being equal). Many of us live in areas where we have access to very good information regarding installers. We can choose a very good installer by reading consumer reviews. We have a harder time finding literature on the hardware. Thank you for your honesty. This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. If the above holds true, then given a hypothetical situation in which the best installer in the world hooked up all brands of furnaces which would operate under identical enviornmental conditions, failure rates would be completely random, without regard to brand/model, correct? That IS correct, since all the parts in ANY unit, other than parts that are propriatary for a particular brand, are all the same. The parts used to control a Carrier, might be used in a Goodman…and vice versa.

Response:

Thank you, very good insight. Yes, so to rephrase the question, *which* brand would be best based on experience when installed by the same diligent contractor? I find it hard to believe that there is no difference between the reliability of these different brands, the company’s response to customer problems, etc. This is not dependent on the install! Performance maybe, but when installed correctly, which tend to have fewer breakdowns, run more efficiently and perform better?? says… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. If the above holds true, then given a hypothetical situation in which the best installer in the world hooked up all brands of furnaces which would operate under identical enviornmental conditions, failure rates would be completely random, without regard to brand/model, correct? I can see the wisdom in recommending that the gentleman get the very best installation possible. What I find hard to believe is that name, or brand means ‘nothing’. If brand means nothing, find the unit with the very cheapest price…. and get the very best contactor you can find to install it.  If you take this approach, and brand name means nothing, you should see no difference if that very best contractor installs  the bargain basement model instead of a Trane or a York.

Response:

This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all.

If the above holds true, then given a hypothetical situation in which the best installer in the world hooked up all brands of furnaces which would operate under identical enviornmental conditions, failure rates would be completely random, without regard to brand/model, correct? I can see the wisdom in recommending that the gentleman get the very best installation possible. What I find hard to believe is that name, or brand means ‘nothing’. If brand means nothing, find the unit with the very cheapest price…. and get the very best contactor you can find to install it.  If you take this approach, and brand name means nothing, you should see no difference if that very best contractor installs  the bargain basement model instead of a Trane or a York.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. I sell York products…I like York…Coleman…etc..any of the brands they own..but, others will prefer others… A Goodman installed correctly, will outperform a so so install of a Trane…so…shop for a dealer that will do the job right, do all the calculations BEFORE sizing a unit, and not just go look at what he THINKS sounds right..and if the price is say…$400 higher than the company that came in, looked around, and popped a quote at you…then its worth that.

I absolutely second this advice.  Consider it as having ccoome from the scriptures.

Response:

This is very simple… The name on the unit means nothing. Installation of the equipment, means all. I sell York products…I like York…Coleman…etc..any of the brands they own..but, others will prefer others… A Goodman installed correctly, will outperform a so so install of a Trane…so…shop for a dealer that will do the job right, do all the calculations BEFORE sizing a unit, and not just go look at what he THINKS sounds right..and if the price is say…$400 higher than the company that came in, looked around, and popped a quote at you…then its worth that.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My old creaky natural gas-powered air conditioner just barely made it through the summer and is now dead. Our furnace (gas) is very old as well, so we’re going to replace both at the same time, probably this spring if the furnace gods are willing to get us that far. I have some estimates from companies for Heil, Amana, Carrier, and York International equipment. Can anyone give me any idea of the quality of these brands? It sounds like a 92% efficient, 2-stage (is that worth the expense?) 75,000 BTU furnace and 10 or 12 seer 2.5 ton AC are right for us. We’re in the central PA area (on the turnpike near Harrisburg). Thanks in advance!

Response:

My old creaky natural gas-powered air conditioner just barely made it through the summer and is now dead. Our furnace (gas) is very old as well, so we’re going to replace both at the same time, probably this spring if the furnace gods are willing to get us that far. I have some estimates from companies for Heil, Amana, Carrier, and York International equipment. Can anyone give me any idea of the quality of these brands? It sounds like a 92% efficient, 2-stage (is that worth the expense?) 75,000 BTU furnace and 10 or 12 seer 2.5 ton AC are right for us. We’re in the central PA area (on the turnpike near Harrisburg). Thanks in advance!

Response:

Onan LPG starting/surging problems

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Greetings esteemed fellow travelers.   I have a 6300 watt Onan Emerald Plus LPG generator which is having some problems. The problems are intermittent,  but appear to be in the fuel system.  I would normally expect to find an intermittent problem in the electrical/ignition system.   The generator always cranks when either the remote or on-generator start button is pressed.  About half the time,  the generator will start right up and run smoothly.   After a minute or so, I will start one air conditioner fan only,  then cycle up to low cool after another minute or so.  The AC voltage usually looks steady and correct ( in the green on my Radio Shark meter ).  I can run both air conditioners on high.    Yesterday,  I tried starting the generator and it just cranked but did not catch.   Having been reading the newsgroup relating to other peoples problems with generators,  I went to the generator compartment and disconnected the remote cable.  Using the on generator button made no difference.   I noticed a little mechanical button on the regulator part of the LPG fuel convertor,  and when I pushed it while cranking the generator started.   As soon as I released the (?priming?) button it died.   If I held the button,  the generator would surge. I tried tapping the fuel solenoid valve on the generator but it seemed to have no effect.  After a few minutes,  the generator would run without me holding the button,  but it still was surging badly.   Applying the fan-only load of one air conditioner did not help.    After about ten minutes,  I decided the surging was not doing the unit any good,  it was warm enough that if that was going to help, it should have and so I shut the unit down.    I continued to get the rig out of the back yard and onto the street getting ready for a trip to Camper World.   After about an hour or so We loaded up and I tried once again to start the generator from inside the coach and it started right up and ran smooth – a real blessing cause the temp here was about 104 F!   I ran for over 3 hours with both AC units running ( one high,  one low cool ) with nary a surge.    Additional LPG Generator fuel system clues:   A month ago (our first trip with the rig – a 94 Flair Diesel pursher) I could not get the generator to start at the campground.  The generator LPG gauge on the monitor panel showed 3/4 tank.   I crawled underneath and the dial gauge on the tank read 1/2 tank.   I tapped the tank with a wrench and it sounded empty.  After emptying the wastewater tanks, I took the rig over to the LPG fill station and asked for a fill. The generator tank only took 15 gallons,  although it looks to be about a 40-60 gallon tank.  It is a horizontal tank of about 2.5′ diameter and perhaps 4′ length.   The guy filling the tank thought it was pretty near empty when he started,  it did not have much pressure, but after only 15 gallons,  the liquid started coming out the vent.  After this fill,  I was able to get the generator running, but it does have the hard starting / surging problem about half the time.  My Theories:   1.   I should dis-assemble and clean the LPG fuel filter on the gen.   2.   Perhaps the hose from the tank to the generator is bad ?   3.   The gauge on the tank does not agree with the one on the monitor.        Niether agrees with reality ( I think ).  Perhaps the sender was        damaged at installation or some post-delivery service ??   4.   The tank capacity does not seem to be correct.  Perhaps some        of the tank fill / vent / pickup tube components are mis-oriented        or damaged.   If the liquid pickup tube feeding the generator is        mis-oriented  perhaps the generator is getting gas instead of        liquid LPG ?   ( but why does it run so well sometimes ? )   Note that when I was working on the unit in my backyard,  it was   near level ( 1/2 bubble off ).  I appreciate your consideration of these clues and any insights relating to these issues that you can share with me.   Jim Morton

Jim,     Can’t address the fuel tank/pickup etc. issues – that’s something you’ll have to (probably) take up with a good propane supplier.     Your genset is a liquid-withdrawal propane system – LP at tank pressure feeds to your regulator, which is a two-stage device. The first stage reduces the tank pressure to the low pressure required for set operation. The second stage is a demand regulator – it restricts fuel flow through the regulator until the vacuum from the engine creates a demand for fuel. Fuel flows through the regulator only when the engine is cranking or running – it stops flowing when the engine is stopped. The regulator should not be a problem _if the set is used on a regular basis, and operated on clean, high quality fuel_. Most regulator malfunctions can be traced to one of the following sources:     -hardened diaphragms and seats due to extended periods of non-use.     -dirt or foreign matter embedded in valves and valve seats.     -use of LP with excessive oil content, which will separate in the regulator and gum up the valves. A regulator that has been operated, then stored for any length of time may require rebuilding or replacement. Diaphragms and gaskets tend to dry, shrink, and harden with time. A regulator with granules of foreign material embedded in the secondary seat, or clogged with separated oil, may cause inconsistent starting or idling. Foreign matter dissolved in the LP can form granules as the fuel is vaporized.     When you pushed the button on the regulator, you were manually forcing the secondary valve open. That you had to do this to get the genset to run at all, and that the genset mixture was then either too rich or too lean (evidenced by the surging) implies that you have (at least) a secondary diaphragm/valve problem.  This _is_ consistent with your report of the problem only occurring 1/2 the time.     I sugggest that you get a new gas regulator installed on the genset – while it’s possible to rebuild them, the cost of the kit plus the labor to do it (and adjust it properly) will be pretty close to the cost of a new regulator – and unless you’re in/near a major city, you may have trouble finding someone who’ll even touch it, let alone know how to adjust it properly.     It would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter element at the same time – note that it’s a sintered bronze element, and intended to be replaced, not cleaned.     Once it’s running properly, help prevent future problems by using it regularly. Alan

Response:

Greetings esteemed fellow travelers.   I have a 6300 watt Onan Emerald Plus LPG generator which is having some problems. The problems are intermittent,  but appear to be in the fuel system.  I would normally expect to find an intermittent problem in the electrical/ignition system.   The generator always cranks when either the remote or on-generator start button is pressed.  About half the time,  the generator will start right up and run smoothly.   After a minute or so, I will start one air conditioner fan only,  then cycle up to low cool after another minute or so.  The AC voltage usually looks steady and correct ( in the green on my Radio Shark meter ).  I can run both air conditioners on high.      Yesterday,  I tried starting the generator and it just cranked but did not catch.   Having been reading the newsgroup relating to other peoples problems with generators,  I went to the generator compartment and disconnected the remote cable.  Using the on generator button made no difference.   I noticed a little mechanical button on the regulator part of the LPG fuel convertor,  and when I pushed it while cranking the generator started.   As soon as I released the (?priming?) button it died.   If I held the button,  the generator would surge.    I tried tapping the fuel solenoid valve on the generator but it seemed to have no effect.  After a few minutes,  the generator would run without me holding the button,  but it still was surging badly.   Applying the fan-only load of one air conditioner did not help.        After about ten minutes,  I decided the surging was not doing the unit any good,  it was warm enough that if that was going to help, it should have and so I shut the unit down.      I continued to get the rig out of the back yard and onto the street getting ready for a trip to Camper World.   After about an hour or so We loaded up and I tried once again to start the generator from inside the coach and it started right up and ran smooth – a real blessing cause the temp here was about 104 F!   I ran for over 3 hours with both AC units running ( one high,  one low cool ) with nary a surge.    Additional LPG Generator fuel system clues:   A month ago (our first trip with the rig – a 94 Flair Diesel pursher) I could not get the generator to start at the campground.  The generator LPG gauge on the monitor panel showed 3/4 tank.   I crawled underneath and the dial gauge on the tank read 1/2 tank.   I tapped the tank with a wrench and it sounded empty.  After emptying the wastewater tanks, I took the rig over to the LPG fill station and asked for a fill.  The generator tank only took 15 gallons,  although it looks to be about a 40-60 gallon tank.  It is a horizontal tank of about 2.5′ diameter and perhaps 4′ length.   The guy filling the tank thought it was pretty near empty when he started,  it did not have much pressure, but after only 15 gallons,  the liquid started coming out the vent.    After this fill,  I was able to get the generator running, but it does have the hard starting / surging problem about half the time.  My Theories:   1.   I should dis-assemble and clean the LPG fuel filter on the gen.   2.   Perhaps the hose from the tank to the generator is bad ?   3.   The gauge on the tank does not agree with the one on the monitor.        Niether agrees with reality ( I think ).  Perhaps the sender was        damaged at installation or some post-delivery service ??   4.   The tank capacity does not seem to be correct.  Perhaps some        of the tank fill / vent / pickup tube components are mis-oriented        or damaged.   If the liquid pickup tube feeding the generator is        mis-oriented  perhaps the generator is getting gas instead of        liquid LPG ?   ( but why does it run so well sometimes ? )   Note that when I was working on the unit in my backyard,  it was   near level ( 1/2 bubble off ).  I appreciate your consideration of these clues and any insights relating to these issues that you can share with me.     Jim Morton

Response:

Air Conditioning Nightmare

Question:

Is the coil not a PART?? again Carrier and its smoke and mirrors are a JOKE save yourself a ton of headache, they not only don’t stand behide the product they are not to friendly to deal with on the phone. And that being kind. the system is only 4 years old and is a pile of junk it would cost me more to fix then to replace. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -" " I was told by the serviceman it was also the wrong coil for a Carrier " and it was installed by a Carrier authorized dealer. They installed a " Innercity coil model # U18YX I was told it was wrong by carrier. " I have this on me  bill of sale: " "Wrong how? If its matched to the condensor, it could say Yugo on it… "Nope..dont buy into this little story at all… " " " Warranty:  10 years on compressor "                    5 years on parts "                    1 year  on labour " "Wow..you found your CONDENSOR warranty….where is the one for the EVAP "COIL?? " " " but I called Carrier and they told me it was an extended warranty that I "did no pay for " but it’s on my bill.It had nothing on my bill saying extended warranty. " "From what you have shown, the only warranty is on the CONDENSOR…. " " " " I will never let a Carrier agent in my house again and if your thinking of "putting in " a Carrier product, save yourself a ton of problems and go with something "else! " that don’t honor there warranty. " "They honor it FINE, when its IN WARRANTY…. "If you have a problem with the EVAP COIL, thats tough…InnerCity is one "year… " "To all: " "This is a prime, perfect example after the fact why you need to understand "why the installer is key…. "it is obvious that the installer here, did not go over the warranty "provisions, and explain how things work. "For example…if you buy a modular home, and its got the standard Nordyne "electric furnace in it, it has a warranty, the control box for blower has a "seperate warranty, the evap coil has its own warranty, and the heat pump, or "condensor outside has its own warranty, and if you have, say, a Mortex coil "with a Carrier unit, as long as the size is correct, and the metering is "correct, it will work. Mortex wont warranty the Carrier unit outside, and "Carrier, nor ANYOTHER maker will warranty the evap coil, unless its got "their name on it…and most of the time, Mortex or someone else makes it "anyway.. " "Not only is a good install important, but the installer MUST take the time "to explain the warranty to you. I sold a unit today that we start on come "morning…it took about 2 hours to determine the location, size, and layout "with the homeowner..another 2 hours tonight to get the plans drawn up, it "will take about 8 to 10 hours to complete this job, and 30 seconds to get a "check upon completion…but not till after ALL the paperwork has been gone "over, including the warranty, owners manual, and installation manual as "well, since there is some points in there that the homeowner might (in this "case in particular) might be interested in. "Thats gonna take another hour at least to complete. Didnt even talk about "the operation of the new thermostat there either…so…add another 15 to "20… "How about explanation of the service the homeowner CAN do..and of course to "cover the items that by law, they cant. "The company that installs your unit should take the time to care…if they "dont, and they dont cover most of that in the initial consultation during "talking about the sale of the unit, keep looking. " " " " " " " " "Also, I was informed " "that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit " "installed in 1998. " " " "I work for a company that does a major home "appliance"… there is a "date on " "the valve and consumers are always thinking it has something to do with "when " "the unit was manufactured. It does not…it is the date that we started "using " "that particular valve. We also may produce something that is in "inventory 6 " "months before it is used (don’t like too often), but it will have the "same " "warranty on it, and should be the same part, as one that was produced "the day " "before the order shipped.  Don’t necessarily assume its manufactured on "any " "date..unless it says specifically that…"manufactured on/in XX.". " " "

Response:

for another companys error…thats like getting pissed off at Chrysler, because you also have a Pontiac they wont fix.

hmm…perhaps the analagous case (to borrow from you example) is Chrysler saying they won’t honor a warranty for a cracked engine block since the block is manufactured by Kimoto Block, LTD (made up company name). I think the problem is that we’re accustomed to buying whole products from vendors, not bits and pieces that make up the product. Clearly, that’s no longer the case (if it ever was, that is), but it’s a tough pill to swallow. — Regards, blubluh

Response:

Read the fine print for sure. Installed a unit today…mentioned in another thread, that was a package heat pump…the electric strips have one warranty, the compressor has a warranty, my labor warranty, the DUCT that we used has a warranty, the coils have a warranty, the case has a warranty, the factory supplies a labor warranty, and all other parts, included in the unit from factory, have ANOTHER warranty…and thats the way it is on EVERY unit made, by ANY maker. About the only thing that didnt come with a warranty was the duct transitions…and really…ever seen a transition give trouble????? No…neither have I… Hell..I think the tape we used and the straps and screws have a performance warranty.. Some salesmen push the longest warranty on the unit…normally the compressor…and dont mention that the labor warranty might only be one year…from factory… If its a split unit, the furnace will have several warranties…the heat exchanger…the parts IN the case, maybe the gas valve will be covered under a particular clause..the motor..etc…a heat pump, will have parts under one, the coil under another….if its got a 5 year warranty, it normally means the coil is 5 year, and the parts and labor are 1….got to read it all to know. Not a problem…btw..:)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation. Here is a prime example of why the name brand on the unit means nothing..but the installer means all…. cbhvac,     I just wanted to say thanks for your very complete and detailed answers in this thread.  I purchased a Trane heat pump last year, and because I purchased during a promotion, I got a 10 year extended warranty on "all parts" at no extra charge.  Now I am going to go back and read the contract and make sure that "all parts" really means "all".  The system is working perfectly, but I would hate to have a big surprise because I had a different definition of all parts then my installer did. Thanks, Alan

Response:

I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation. Here is a prime example of why the name brand on the unit means nothing..but the installer means all….

cbhvac,     I just wanted to say thanks for your very complete and detailed answers in this thread.  I purchased a Trane heat pump last year, and because I purchased during a promotion, I got a 10 year extended warranty on "all parts" at no extra charge.  Now I am going to go back and read the contract and make sure that "all parts" really means "all".  The system is working perfectly, but I would hate to have a big surprise because I had a different definition of all parts then my installer did. Thanks, Alan

Response:

Ok….last time…slowly for you…. The CONDENSOR coil would be covered under the 5 year warranty on the unit…the part OUTSIDE.. The EVAPORATOR coil would be covered under its OWN warranty, and you yourself said it WAS NOT CARRIER… Carrier is standing behind what THEY warranty. The coil maker can tell you if it had a 1, or 5 year warranty…if it had a five, then you still have to pay labor..even if the original installer came out. You need to contact INTERcity products…Heil, Tempstar….Kenmore…etc…. Last time…Intercity is NOT CARRIER…Carrier is not going to warranty HEIL/TEMPSTAR stuff…even if its been matched to a unit…period…end of discussion.. You are only pissed at Carrier, because they were not willing to pay for another companys error…thats like getting pissed off at Chrysler, because you also have a Pontiac they wont fix.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is the coil not a PART?? again Carrier and its smoke and mirrors are a JOKE save yourself a ton of headache, they not only don’t stand behide the product they are not to friendly to deal with on the phone. And that being kind. the system is only 4 years old and is a pile of junk it would cost me more to fix then to replace. " " I was told by the serviceman it was also the wrong coil for a Carrier " and it was installed by a Carrier authorized dealer. They installed a " Innercity coil model # U18YX I was told it was wrong by carrier. " I have this on me  bill of sale: " "Wrong how? If its matched to the condensor, it could say Yugo on it… "Nope..dont buy into this little story at all… " " " Warranty:  10 years on compressor "                    5 years on parts "                    1 year  on labour " "Wow..you found your CONDENSOR warranty….where is the one for the EVAP "COIL?? " " " but I called Carrier and they told me it was an extended warranty that I "did no pay for " but it’s on my bill.It had nothing on my bill saying extended warranty. " "From what you have shown, the only warranty is on the CONDENSOR…. " " " " I will never let a Carrier agent in my house again and if your thinking of "putting in " a Carrier product, save yourself a ton of problems and go with something "else! " that don’t honor there warranty. " "They honor it FINE, when its IN WARRANTY…. "If you have a problem with the EVAP COIL, thats tough…InnerCity is one "year… " "To all: " "This is a prime, perfect example after the fact why you need to understand "why the installer is key…. "it is obvious that the installer here, did not go over the warranty "provisions, and explain how things work. "For example…if you buy a modular home, and its got the standard Nordyne "electric furnace in it, it has a warranty, the control box for blower has a "seperate warranty, the evap coil has its own warranty, and the heat pump, or "condensor outside has its own warranty, and if you have, say, a Mortex coil "with a Carrier unit, as long as the size is correct, and the metering is "correct, it will work. Mortex wont warranty the Carrier unit outside, and "Carrier, nor ANYOTHER maker will warranty the evap coil, unless its got "their name on it…and most of the time, Mortex or someone else makes it "anyway.. " "Not only is a good install important, but the installer MUST take the time "to explain the warranty to you. I sold a unit today that we start on come "morning…it took about 2 hours to determine the location, size, and layout "with the homeowner..another 2 hours tonight to get the plans drawn up, it "will take about 8 to 10 hours to complete this job, and 30 seconds to get a "check upon completion…but not till after ALL the paperwork has been gone "over, including the warranty, owners manual, and installation manual as "well, since there is some points in there that the homeowner might (in this "case in particular) might be interested in. "Thats gonna take another hour at least to complete. Didnt even talk about "the operation of the new thermostat there either…so…add another 15 to "20… "How about explanation of the service the homeowner CAN do..and of course to "cover the items that by law, they cant. "The company that installs your unit should take the time to care…if they "dont, and they dont cover most of that in the initial consultation during "talking about the sale of the unit, keep looking. " " " " " " " " "Also, I was informed " "that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit " "installed in 1998. " " " "I work for a company that does a major home "appliance"… there is a "date on " "the valve and consumers are always thinking it has something to do with "when " "the unit was manufactured. It does not…it is the date that we started "using " "that particular valve. We also may produce something that is in "inventory 6 " "months before it is used (don’t like too often), but it will have the "same " "warranty on it, and should be the same part, as one that was produced "the day " "before the order shipped.  Don’t necessarily assume its manufactured on "any " "date..unless it says specifically that…"manufactured on/in XX.". " " "

Response:

I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation. Here’s the story. Approximately 2 years after it was installed I had no cooling in the house. I called my installer and unfortunately they went out of business, but the contracts and customer lists were purchased by another company. I was told they didn’t honor the warrenty from the company that went belly up, so consequently I called another serviceman in from a different company. He put the gauges on the system and informed me there was freon in the system. He also informed me that the compressor was tight and had to install a hard start kit. He did an eletronic search of the system and found a leak at the service valve, he replaced the O-ring and said everything was fine. The unit seemed to work farely well for the rest of the summer, but when I started the unit this summer I got the same problem happening. So I called the same company back then they did a nitrogen test on the system and found about 5-10 leaks on the inside coil that’s installed in the furnace. So of course the 365 day warrenty did not cover the repairs this year because the leak was in a different spot. Now what I would like to know is should the first repairman that repaired the O-ring not have done a nitrogen test before he filled the system with freon, because that’s what he did. Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit installed in 1998. It seems to me that it’s probably a used coil. The whole installion is only 4 years old and I have 5-10 leaks on the coil. That seems a little strange. There’s a lot of rust where the coil tubes loop and then meet the body of the coil. It seems like the coil has been used before. I was also informed that the evaporation coil does not match with the outside unit. The T-X valve does not allow the system to balance properly. Now can anyone tell me if I can get anything done about this. I’ve paid over $2000 to get the system installed and have had nothing but nightmares with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Call Carrier…tell them you suspect your NEW unit was sold with used parts when you bought it (probably why company went out of business).  Maybe they’ll help you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation. Here’s the story. Approximately 2 years after it was installed I had no cooling in the house. I called my installer and unfortunately they went out of business, but the contracts and customer lists were purchased by another company. I was told they didn’t honor the warrenty from the company that went belly up, so consequently I called another serviceman in from a different company. He put the gauges on the system and informed me there was freon in the system. He also informed me that the compressor was tight and had to install a hard start kit. He did an eletronic search of the system and found a leak at the service valve, he replaced the O-ring and said everything was fine. The unit seemed to work farely well for the rest of the summer, but when I started the unit this summer I got the same problem happening. So I called the same company back then they did a nitrogen test on the system and found about 5-10 leaks on the inside coil that’s installed in the furnace. So of course the 365 day warrenty did not cover the repairs this year because the leak was in a different spot. Now what I would like to know is should the first repairman that repaired the O-ring not have done a nitrogen test before he filled the system with freon, because that’s what he did. Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit

installed in 1998. It – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – seems to me that it’s probably a used coil. The whole installion is only 4 years old and I have 5-10 leaks on the coil. That seems a little strange. There’s a lot of  rust where the coil tubes loop and then meet the body of the coil. It seems like the coil has been used before. I was also informed that the evaporation coil does not match with the outside unit. The T-X valve does not allow the system to balance properly. Now can anyone tell me if I can get anything done about this. I’ve paid over $2000 to get the system installed and have had nothing but nightmares with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Or laugh their ass off…once a factory rep comes out, looks at it, they can tell right away what was factory and what was not.. Its that way with ANY unit… How about calling Carrier with the truth…..that works wonders….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Call Carrier…tell them you suspect your NEW unit was sold with used parts when you bought it (probably why company went out of business).  Maybe they’ll help you. I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation. Here’s the story. Approximately 2 years after it was installed I had no cooling in the house. I called my installer and unfortunately they went out of business, but the contracts and customer lists were purchased by another company. I was told they didn’t honor the warrenty from the company that went belly up, so consequently I called another serviceman in from a different company. He put the gauges on the system and informed me there was freon in the system. He also informed me that the compressor was tight and had to install a hard start kit. He did an eletronic search of the system and found a leak at the service valve, he replaced the O-ring and said everything was fine. The unit seemed to work farely well for the rest of the summer, but when I started the unit this summer I got the same problem happening. So I called the same company back then they did a nitrogen test on the system and found about 5-10 leaks on the inside coil that’s installed in the furnace. So of course the 365 day warrenty did not cover the repairs this year because the leak was in a different spot. Now what I would like to know is should the first repairman that repaired the O-ring not have done a nitrogen test before he filled the system with freon, because that’s what he did. Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit installed in 1998. It seems to me that it’s probably a used coil. The whole installion is only 4 years old and I have 5-10 leaks on the coil. That seems a little strange. There’s a lot of  rust where the coil tubes loop and then meet the body of the coil. It seems like the coil has been used before. I was also informed that the evaporation coil does not match with the outside unit. The T-X valve does not allow the system to balance properly. Now can anyone tell me if I can get anything done about this. I’ve paid over $2000 to get the system installed and have had nothing but nightmares with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I was told by the serviceman it was also the wrong coil for a Carrier and it was installed by a Carrier authorized dealer. They installed a Innercity coil model # U18YX I was told it was wrong by carrier. I have this on me  bill of sale:

Wrong how? If its matched to the condensor, it could say Yugo on it… Nope..dont buy into this little story at all… Warranty:  10 years on compressor                    5 years on parts                    1 year  on labour

Wow..you found your CONDENSOR warranty….where is the one for the EVAP COIL?? but I called Carrier and they told me it was an extended warranty that I did no pay for but it’s on my bill.It had nothing on my bill saying extended warranty.

From what you have shown, the only warranty is on the CONDENSOR…. I will never let a Carrier agent in my house again and if your thinking of putting in a Carrier product, save yourself a ton of problems and go with something else! that don’t honor there warranty.

They honor it FINE, when its IN WARRANTY…. If you have a problem with the EVAP COIL, thats tough…InnerCity is one year… To all: This is a prime, perfect example after the fact why you need to understand why the installer is key…. it is obvious that the installer here, did not go over the warranty provisions, and explain how things work. For example…if you buy a modular home, and its got the standard Nordyne electric furnace in it, it has a warranty, the control box for blower has a seperate warranty, the evap coil has its own warranty, and the heat pump, or condensor outside has its own warranty, and if you have, say, a Mortex coil with a Carrier unit, as long as the size is correct, and the metering is correct, it will work. Mortex wont warranty the Carrier unit outside, and Carrier, nor ANYOTHER maker will warranty the evap coil, unless its got their name on it…and most of the time, Mortex or someone else makes it anyway.. Not only is a good install important, but the installer MUST take the time to explain the warranty to you. I sold a unit today that we start on come morning…it took about 2 hours to determine the location, size, and layout with the homeowner..another 2 hours tonight to get the plans drawn up, it will take about 8 to 10 hours to complete this job, and 30 seconds to get a check upon completion…but not till after ALL the paperwork has been gone over, including the warranty, owners manual, and installation manual as well, since there is some points in there that the homeowner might (in this case in particular) might be interested in. Thats gonna take another hour at least to complete. Didnt even talk about the operation of the new thermostat there either…so…add another 15 to 20… How about explanation of the service the homeowner CAN do..and of course to cover the items that by law, they cant. The company that installs your unit should take the time to care…if they dont, and they dont cover most of that in the initial consultation during talking about the sale of the unit, keep looking. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – " "Also, I was informed "that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit "installed in 1998. " "I work for a company that does a major home "appliance"… there is a date on "the valve and consumers are always thinking it has something to do with when "the unit was manufactured. It does not…it is the date that we started using "that particular valve. We also may produce something that is in inventory 6 "months before it is used (don’t like too often), but it will have the same "warranty on it, and should be the same part, as one that was produced the day "before the order shipped.  Don’t necessarily assume its manufactured on any "date..unless it says specifically that…"manufactured on/in XX.".

Response:

I was told by the serviceman it was also the wrong coil for a Carrier and it was installed by a Carrier authorized dealer. They installed a Innercity coil model # U18YX I was told it was wrong by carrier. I have this on me  bill of sale: Warranty:  10 years on compressor                    5 years on parts                    1 year  on labour but I called Carrier and they told me it was an extended warranty that I did no pay for but it’s on my bill.It had nothing on my bill saying extended warranty. I will never let a Carrier agent in my house again and if your thinking of putting in a Carrier product, save yourself a ton of problems and go with something else! that don’t honor there warranty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – " "Also, I was informed "that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit "installed in 1998. " "I work for a company that does a major home "appliance"… there is a date on "the valve and consumers are always thinking it has something to do with when "the unit was manufactured. It does not…it is the date that we started using "that particular valve. We also may produce something that is in inventory 6 "months before it is used (don’t like too often), but it will have the same "warranty on it, and should be the same part, as one that was produced the day "before the order shipped.  Don’t necessarily assume its manufactured on any "date..unless it says specifically that…"manufactured on/in XX.".

Response:

Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit installed in 1998.

I work for a company that does a major home "appliance"… there is a date on the valve and consumers are always thinking it has something to do with when the unit was manufactured. It does not…it is the date that we started using that particular valve. We also may produce something that is in inventory 6 months before it is used (don’t like too often), but it will have the same warranty on it, and should be the same part, as one that was produced the day before the order shipped.  Don’t necessarily assume its manufactured on any date..unless it says specifically that…"manufactured on/in XX.".

Response:

Call Carrier…tell them you suspect your NEW unit was sold with used parts when you bought it (probably why company went out of business).  Maybe they’ll help you. LOL! I doubt it… No witnesses, no proof. He has to bend over because he got scammed. It happens and probably the whole air handler was used since his installation price was pretty cheap. My 2.5 Ton Goodman with the air handler in the attic cost over $3700 in 1993. Never had a problem yet.

Ow man…and you talking about getting scammed….:) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – — Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail

Response:

    This all goes back to the most important part of any system … The contractor.  The brand is a distant third.  Have you checked with your State’s Attorney General?  You may have some rights, but don’t bet on it. Good luck. — Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1  It’s Irish Math

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation. Here’s the story. Approximately 2 years after it was installed I had no cooling in the house. I called my installer and unfortunately they went out of business, but the contracts and customer lists were purchased by another company. I was told they didn’t honor the warrenty from the company that went belly up, so consequently I called another serviceman in from a different company. He put the gauges on the system and informed me there was freon in the system. He also informed me that the compressor was tight and had to install a hard start kit. He did an eletronic search of the system and found a leak at the service valve, he replaced the O-ring and said everything was fine. The unit seemed to work farely well for the rest of the summer, but when I started the unit this summer I got the same problem happening. So I called the same company back then they did a nitrogen test on the system and found about 5-10 leaks on the inside coil that’s installed in the furnace. So of course the 365 day warrenty did not cover the repairs this year because the leak was in a different spot. Now what I would like to know is should the first repairman that repaired the O-ring not have done a nitrogen test before he filled the system with freon, because that’s what he did. Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit

installed in 1998. It – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – seems to me that it’s probably a used coil. The whole installion is only 4 years old and I have 5-10 leaks on the coil. That seems a little strange. There’s a lot of rust where the coil tubes loop and then meet the body of the coil. It seems like the coil has been used before. I was also informed that the evaporation coil does not match with the outside unit. The T-X valve does not allow the system to balance properly. Now can anyone tell me if I can get anything done about this. I’ve paid over $2000 to get the system installed and have had nothing but nightmares with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Call Carrier…tell them you suspect your NEW unit was sold with used parts when you bought it (probably why company went out of business).  Maybe they’ll help you. LOL! I doubt it… No witnesses, no proof. He has to bend over because he got scammed. It happens and probably the whole air handler was used since his installation price was pretty cheap. My 2.5 Ton Goodman with the air handler in the attic cost over $3700 in 1993. Never had a problem yet. Ow man…and you talking about getting scammed….:)

Did I say I bought it? :) I have the old install manuals from the original owner of the house who paid that price. This unit can turn this house into a human popsicle stand with the ceiling vents. Best AC I have ever felt in a house or commercial building. When I close the bedroom doors you can actually feel the pressure of the air flowing from under the doors and into the hallway intake 20×20x1. My electric bill stays around $55 a month. That’s pretty good considering where I live. — Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail

Response:

… This unit can turn this house into a human popsicle stand with the ceiling vents. You call that comfortable?

LOL! Of course not. I’m just saying that my AC arrangement is very well matched for this house due to the way it gets distributed. Right now I have it set to 74 deg F and the house feels very cool. It also runs extremely efficient so it comes on when it just starts to feel a little warm, stays on for 10 minutes or so and then off again for 20 min. I’m just guessing. Right now it’s about 91 def F outside. I’ve never turned it down real low to see if I could become a human popsicle. :) — Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail

Response:

Call Carrier…tell them you suspect your NEW unit was sold with used parts when you bought it (probably why company went out of business).  Maybe they’ll help you.

LOL! I doubt it… No witnesses, no proof. He has to bend over because he got scammed. It happens and probably the whole air handler was used since his installation price was pretty cheap. My 2.5 Ton Goodman with the air handler in the attic cost over $3700 in 1993. Never had a problem yet. — Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail

Response:

I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems with it almost from the beginning of the installation.

Here is a prime example of why the name brand on the unit means nothing..but the installer means all…. Here’s the story. Approximately 2 years after it was installed I had no cooling in the house. I called my installer and unfortunately they went out of business, but the contracts and customer lists were purchased by another company.

Happens often..several thousand go out of business each year, most often, from not realizing how much it costs to run the business, and how to effectively pass on those costs.. I was told they didn’t honor the warrenty from the company that went belly up,

Well….you have part of it right….ANY Carrier dealer must honor the factory warranty, but NOT the labor…and if you want a big surprise…most any dealer for any brand can get warranty service… so consequently I called another serviceman in from a different company. He put the gauges on the system and informed me there was freon in the system.

Freon is NOT in your system….Freon is R12…you have R22…just so you know.. He also informed me that the compressor was tight and had to install a hard start kit. He did an eletronic search of the system and found a leak at the service valve, he replaced the O-ring and said everything was fine.

No O-rings either…Schrader valves…sure.. The unit seemed to work farely well for the rest of the summer, but when I started the unit this summer I got the same problem happening. So I called the same company back then they did a nitrogen test on the system and found about 5-10 leaks on the inside coil that’s installed in the furnace.

So…just out of curiosity..since no detector on the market will pick up nitrogen…did they use Big Blue? And…since the Nitrogen tank has about 2500PSI in it…enough to blow the ends off the coil…did they use a pressure reg on it?? This sounds bad right now.. So of course the 365 day warrenty did not cover the repairs this year because the leak was in a different spot. Now what I would like to know is should the first repairman that repaired the O-ring not have done a nitrogen test before he filled the system with freon, because that’s what he did.

Nope… Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I had the unit

installed in 1998. It seems to me that it’s probably a used coil. The whole installion is only 4 years old and I have 5-10 leaks on the coil. That seems a little strange. There’s a lot of rust where the coil tubes loop and then meet the body of the coil. It seems like the coil has been used before.

Nope..it all sounds normal. Parts that are installed TODAY, were not made yesterday…a units warranty does not start until the start up date of the system… In other words…I can go buy a system today..sit on it 20 years, and install it 20 years from today…the 5 or 10 year warranty starts on the day the system is deemed completed. Rust on the coils..normal…what would NOT be normal would be a rust free Carrier coil…you are seeing rust from the tin used to seal the ends of the frame.. very common..very normal..so far, nothing out of the ordinary have you stated. I was also informed that the evaporation coil does not match with the outside unit. The T-X valve does not allow the system to balance properly.

Thats a common problem..normally happens when the condensor is replaced, and one of two things happen.. The homeowner will not replace the coil at the same time, due to the added few hundred it takes, or the installer does not inform the homeowner that the coils must be matched… the TXV valve, or more properly, the TEV, is normally added as a matched part to the system..so it matches one part…what part..no idea.. but I can guarantee you its working better than a fixed orifice would in this case, IF the coil is actually mis-matched. Now can anyone tell me if I can get anything done about this. I’ve paid over $2000 to get the system installed and have had nothing but nightmares with it. Any help would be appreciated.

Honestly…on a system that old, that from your posting has worked fine with the exception of these two times…not a hell of a lot, if you mean that you feel that you were screwed from day one. The coil, may, or may not be under factory warranty. All you need to have is the original paperwork that shows when the coil was installed, and if the job was correct, it will be on the invoice from the condensor…if its got a 5 year warranty, it can be replaced, but you will be responsible for labor, and refrigerant costs. Thats the way it works. If it had a 1 year warranty as most do, IF it was installed as only an evap coil, and not part of an air handler, then, its probably out of warranty, and there is not a hell of a lot that you can do…sad and crappy as that might seem. $2000 is cheap…as in, REAL cheap….you didnt say how many tons the system was, but right there is a reason your original installer is no longer in the trade. You can call Carrier, but if the dealer that installed it is gone, then there is no labor warranty to go with..and in most cases, as in the case of Carrier, its only for a year  as in 1 year, anyway. Tell you right off the bat, not Carrier, not Trane, York, or anyone, is going to do much about this. Two documented complaints, all this time…warrantys pretty much gone..nope..its time to pay for it to get fixed, and I would for sure not go with your nitrogen buddies..

Response:

… I purchased a Carrier Air Conditioner unit model 38TKB in 1998 and I have had nothing but problems  Now what I would like to know is should the first repairman that repaired

the O-  ring not have done a nitrogen test before he filled the system with freon, because that’s what he did.

Nitrogen is an intert gas.  I used to work for a company that made  AC coils.  We used nitrogen in them when brazing the return bends and fittings to eliminate oxidation and internal corrosion from the brazing.  It was also used for testing. Also, I was informed that the coil that was installed was made in 1995 and I  had the unit installed in 1998. It seems to me that it’s probably a

used coil. Maybe not.  The company may have bought the coil new, found that it was not right for a particular job but just put it on the shelf.  It is also possible htat Carrier had it on the back shelf of the warehouse, but it is a perfect coil.  They don’t go stale like bread or milk. The whole installion is only 4 years old and I have 5-10 leaks on the

coil. That   seems a little strange. There’s a lot of  rust where the coil tubes loop and then meet the body of the coil. It seems like the coil has been used before. Yes, that many leaks is strange.  Are the tubes copper?  Copper does not rust, but it could be deposits washed down from a rusting shroud.  I can’t tell anything sitting here.   I was also informed that the evaporation coil does not match with the outside  unit. The T-X valve does not allow the system to balance properly. can anyone tell me if I can get anything done about this. I’ve paid   over $2000 to get the system installed and have had nothing but nightmares with it. Not my area of expertise.  If this is so, you’d be better off replacing the coil and getting the job made right.  The complaint is with the now defunct original installer.  Buy a big jar of Vaseline or KY jelly and it may not hurt as much. Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

Response:

Just got a bid for replacement windows…

Question:

What’s really interesting is that we got some of the typical sales tactics…."10% off for buying today" and the like. But on the other hand, the salesman left without a signed contract and no follow up appointment, and as a matter of fact, left a completed contract with the "buy today" price filled in. If I want the windows, I fax it to him. If not, I tear it up. Hmmmm…. — Wayne Crannell

Wow, you did call Sears.  That’s their sales strategy exactly and its not typical in my area.  Sears does it for siding, roofing, re-facing, and now I guess windows.  They must close 5 to 10% of the jobs they bid, and at 300% profit they only need 10 or 20 of these jobs a year to make good money. I recently saw a re-roof bid war – all apples to apples.  3 roofers between 2800 and 3400.  Sears, almost 9000, but you had to sign up today.  End of war.  Saw another cabinet re-facing job that Sears priced at about $10,000. Another contractor priced the kitchen out at $3800 – but that was for all new cabinets!

Response:

I am wondering about the price though. We are doing 11 total windows with 4 of them being smallish half arch windows. The rest are double hung or slide-bys ranging from a 5′ by 6′ picture (actually a triple slide by) to normal double-hung bath, kitchen, and bedroom windows. The windows themselves are the usual low-e, triple pane, argon gas, welded joints, etc., etc. All are custom sizes. Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but

Watch those half round windows…we we going to replaced a rectangular casement window with one that had a half round on top. The standard rectangular replacement cost was about $400. To add the half round, the price went to $800….ymmv. And yes, new "good quality" windows are very expensive so go to more than one company for pricing…

Response:

Any thoughts would be appreciated. We just got a bid for Great Lakes Replacement windows. The window installation company is a reputable, experienced company in the area. They check out with the BBB and the references (well, of course), so I’m not really concerned with the quality of their work. I am wondering about the price though. We are doing 11 total windows with 4 of them being smallish half arch windows. The rest are double hung or slide-bys ranging from a 5′ by 6′ picture (actually a triple slide by) to normal double-hung bath, kitchen, and bedroom windows. The windows themselves are the usual low-e, triple pane, argon gas, welded joints, etc., etc. All are custom sizes. The house is brick and in Texas, the land of ever-shifting foundations and truly custom everything. Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but is this completely insane? Thanks for any input you might have. — Wayne Crannell

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any thoughts would be appreciated. We just got a bid for Great Lakes Replacement windows. The window installation company is a reputable, experienced company in the area. They check out with the BBB and the references (well, of course), so I’m not really concerned with the quality of their work. I am wondering about the price though. We are doing 11 total windows with 4 of them being smallish half arch windows. The rest are double hung or slide-bys ranging from a 5′ by 6′ picture (actually a triple slide by) to normal double-hung bath, kitchen, and bedroom windows. The windows themselves are the usual low-e, triple pane, argon gas, welded joints, etc., etc. All are custom sizes. The house is brick and in Texas, the land of ever-shifting foundations and truly custom everything. Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but is this completely insane? Thanks for any input you might have. — Wayne Crannell

Why are you replacing windows?  repair/reglazing/new sashes?  If you are just bored and rich, sign now and don’t forget to tip the guys. Get a breakdown on costs, if you are unsure.   Plain jane vinyl replacements around here is about $200 installed.  So add custom, triple pane, gas filled — I guess you could get there.  At $700 per window, you are at Sears subcontractor prices for plain jane windows, if you sign with them today . . .

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but is this completely insane? Thanks for any input you might have. — Wayne Crannell Why are you replacing windows?  repair/reglazing/new sashes?  If you are just bored and rich, sign now and don’t forget to tip the guys. Get a breakdown on costs, if you are unsure.   Plain jane vinyl replacements around here is about $200 installed.  So add custom, triple pane, gas filled — I guess you could get there.  At $700 per window, you are at Sears subcontractor prices for plain jane windows, if you sign with them today . . .

I’m replacing the windows because the house is 35 years old and has single pane aluminum windows that are falling out of the holes. No we’re not "rich" but we have budgeted for a certain amount of improvements. — Wayne Crannell

Response:

Wayne – get another bid! The one you have may be right on, but you won’t know unless you get another price point or two. For that job I’d at least get 2 or 3 bids and then decide. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any thoughts would be appreciated. We just got a bid for Great Lakes Replacement windows. The window installation company is a reputable, experienced company in the area. They check out with the BBB and the references (well, of course), so I’m not really concerned with the quality of their work. I am wondering about the price though. We are doing 11 total windows with 4 of them being smallish half arch windows. The rest are double hung or slide-bys ranging from a 5′ by 6′ picture (actually a triple slide by) to normal double-hung bath, kitchen, and bedroom windows. The windows themselves are the usual low-e, triple pane, argon gas, welded joints, etc., etc. All are custom sizes. The house is brick and in Texas, the land of ever-shifting foundations and truly custom everything. Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but is this completely insane? Thanks for any input you might have.

Response:

those must be those self cleaning do your laundry windows for that price. yikes.. course i never hear of that company but ouch. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wayne – get another bid! The one you have may be right on, but you won’t know unless you get another price point or two. For that job I’d at least get 2 or 3 bids and then decide. Any thoughts would be appreciated. We just got a bid for Great Lakes Replacement windows. The window installation company is a reputable, experienced company in the area. They check out with the BBB and the references (well, of course), so I’m not really concerned with the quality of their work. I am wondering about the price though. We are doing 11 total windows with 4 of them being smallish half arch windows. The rest are double hung or slide-bys ranging from a 5′ by 6′ picture (actually a triple slide by) to normal double-hung bath, kitchen, and bedroom windows. The windows themselves are the usual low-e, triple pane, argon gas, welded joints, etc., etc. All are custom sizes. The house is brick and in Texas, the land of ever-shifting foundations and truly custom everything. Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but is this completely insane? Thanks for any input you might have.

Response:

Price the windows yourself, then determine how much labor is involved. I’ve installed several Pella Prolines and two sliding doors in my house, as long as you are on ground level it’s pretty easy.  Most of the windows I replaced were good size double hungs.  Double pane, Low-e with argon were about $200 – $250 a piece.  Even the sliders, one Pella and one Andersen were $800-$900 apiece. Home Depot will subcontract installation for you at $200 per window or $400 per slider.  Use that as a base line to compare your labor estimates.  This includes removal and disposal of the old window as well. -Kevin

Well it sounds about what they are getting. If yo do not want to mess with this yourself (I would not) you will pay for good windows. Ours (Anderson) average about 1200 a window but that include building a big Bay fro about 4500 dollars. It is a lot but will last forever. I definitely have better energy use, the air conditioner runs a lot less and the house is much more evenly cooled than it was. It is a comfort thing though, NO WAY will energy savings come EVEN CLOSE to paying for new windows. Gil Baron http://webpages.charter.net/gbaron 44:04.925 N 92:30.758 W 1055′ "Hierro candente, batir de repente"

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What’s really interesting is that we got some of the typical sales tactics…."10% off for buying today" and the like. But on the other hand, the salesman left without a signed contract and no follow up appointment, and as a matter of fact, left a completed contract with the "buy today" price filled in. If I want the windows, I fax it to him. If not, I tear it up. Hmmmm…. — Wayne Crannell Wow, you did call Sears.  That’s their sales strategy exactly and its not typical in my area.  Sears does it for siding, roofing, re-facing, and now I guess windows.  They must close 5 to 10% of the jobs they bid, and at 300% profit they only need 10 or 20 of these jobs a year to make good money.

Wow! is right, I just got a quote from Sears to replace 5 double hung windows in a 40’s era 2nd floor apartment, the location is near the Los Angeles,CA area and was quoted $6300. so I think I got all you guys beat as far as price goes, insane if you ask me, $1260. per window is absolutely ridiculous. They also gave my parents the crap about signup now and we’ll give you a discount, for which they never even wrote on any of the paperwork about any discount. Luckly we have 3 days to cancel. I’m going to call a local window contractor and get a quote. Thanks to all those who posted in the group, I had my suspicions that the price was outrageous, but after reading the postings in this group my worries were confirmed. John.

Response:

I have to disagree entirely! First I doubt no matter what they say about getting value back when you sell. I believe it will make your house sell faster but not for more $$$. We did a 35K kitchen complete redo took kitchen down to bare walls and put in custom wood cabinets and SS appliances when  we got it appraised appraiser said about 10k was all it was really worth also had steel siding and all new vinyl windows added 0 to the house overall! Also we had the windows from Accent widows who makes the windows themselves in Denver which makes a difference due to altitude. I have heard of people at 12,000ft who have had windows blow out due to the pressure difference!. Accent equipment also "welds" all 4 sides at once and some equipment does 2 at a time then rotates the windows look at the governments book on windows and doors for the R values and you can see the difference. besides just go to a home show and see the difference in the quality of the windows.  The $ 800.00 sliding glass door they installed was amazingly smooth and solid. defiantly worth the $$$. Less you think I love Accent, you are wrong the guy who came to measure measured inside only not in and out so the greenhouse window we ordered didn’t fit they also tried to say we had picked a smaller window for the greenhouse than what we had. All the windows had to sit inside more than they should have due to his measurement so we lost half out windowsill width! And the installers damaged the walls in several places taking the old windows out! Wayne

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, this starts off sounding like it’s off topic, but it’s not… I had an ex-installer come from one of the major home improvement warehouses to measure my kitchen for cabinets.  He’s done both cabinets and windows in his career (he’s almost retired). He noticed that I had new double-paned (..low e, solid vinyl, tilt in, bla bla bla) replacement windows and stated "wow, great job — who did this?" He was surprised I had done it myself and said that I’ll probably get the entire value back as resale, while enjoying the comfort and convenience now (i.e. less noise, easier to open, easier to clean).  He had a few choice words about some well-known window installers (okay guys, I’m not naming names here — heard too much about internet "slander" lawsuits). Basically, with his 20 years experience he said that a lot of big companies who run commercials and send out flyers will give you OUTRAGEOUS quotes at first, like $600-$800 per window.  They will then either offer to come down on the price OR offer you free siding or other improvements.  He said "their entire business revolves around getting you to sign the contract".  He said their windows come from the same manufacturer as the "stock" windows at the big home improvement warehouses, which sell for $75 – $200. Consider going to a home improvement warehouse with a picture of your windows, including a close-up of the fram and sliding mechanism.  If you have standard single- or double-hung windows, they are a PIECE OF CAKE to install… you only need a few tools and a buddy.

Response:

Price the windows yourself, then determine how much labor is involved. I’ve installed several Pella Prolines and two sliding doors in my house, as long as you are on ground level it’s pretty easy.  Most of the windows I replaced were good size double hungs.  Double pane, Low-e with argon were about $200 – $250 a piece.  Even the sliders, one Pella and one Andersen were $800-$900 apiece. Home Depot will subcontract installation for you at $200 per window or $400 per slider.  Use that as a base line to compare your labor estimates.  This includes removal and disposal of the old window as well. -Kevin

Response:

Okay, this starts off sounding like it’s off topic, but it’s not… I had an ex-installer come from one of the major home improvement warehouses to measure my kitchen for cabinets.  He’s done both cabinets and windows in his career (he’s almost retired). He noticed that I had new double-paned (..low e, solid vinyl, tilt in, bla bla bla) replacement windows and stated "wow, great job — who did this?" He was surprised I had done it myself and said that I’ll probably get the entire value back as resale, while enjoying the comfort and convenience now (i.e. less noise, easier to open, easier to clean).  He had a few choice words about some well-known window installers (okay guys, I’m not naming names here — heard too much about internet "slander" lawsuits).  Basically, with his 20 years experience he said that a lot of big companies who run commercials and send out flyers will give you OUTRAGEOUS quotes at first, like $600-$800 per window.  They will then either offer to come down on the price OR offer you free siding or other improvements.  He said "their entire business revolves around getting you to sign the contract".  He said their windows come from the same manufacturer as the "stock" windows at the big home improvement warehouses, which sell for $75 – $200. Consider going to a home improvement warehouse with a picture of your windows, including a close-up of the fram and sliding mechanism.  If you have standard single- or double-hung windows, they are a PIECE OF CAKE to install… you only need a few tools and a buddy.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wayne – get another bid! The one you have may be right on, but you won’t know unless you get another price point or two. For that job I’d at least get 2 or 3 bids and then decide. Any thoughts would be appreciated. We just got a bid for Great Lakes Replacement windows. The window installation company is a reputable, experienced company in the area. They check out with the BBB and the references (well, of course), so I’m not really concerned with the quality of their work. I am wondering about the price though. We are doing 11 total windows with 4 of them being smallish half arch windows. The rest are double hung or slide-bys ranging from a 5′ by 6′ picture (actually a triple slide by) to normal double-hung bath, kitchen, and bedroom windows. The windows themselves are the usual low-e, triple pane, argon gas, welded joints, etc., etc. All are custom sizes. The house is brick and in Texas, the land of ever-shifting foundations and truly custom everything. Here’s the rub. The bid is $8100 which is over $700 a window installed. Now I know those half circles are pricey, and Great Lakes are good windows, but $700 per window? I like the reliability of the company, but is this completely insane? Thanks for any input you might have.

Thanks….after sleeping on it, I am thinking the same thing. I just can’t seem to get the "seven hundred fifty freakin’ dollars per window!?!" mantra out of my head. Like you said, this may be right, but I’d really like to know. I’ve got another window guy coming tomorrow. What’s really interesting is that we got some of the typical sales tactics…."10% off for buying today" and the like. But on the other hand, the salesman left without a signed contract and no follow up appointment, and as a matter of fact, left a completed contract with the "buy today" price filled in. If I want the windows, I fax it to him. If not, I tear it up. Hmmmm…. — Wayne Crannell

Response: