Question:

Hi All, I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw attention. Thanks, Chas

Response:

Hi All, I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw attention. Thanks, Chas

Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B. Tom J

Response:

I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B.

Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running. Brian Elfert

Response:

Thanks Brian, I went to the website. The db level on that model is a very low 58 db under load. Chas

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B. Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running. Brian Elfert

Response:

I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B. Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running.

  The problem might be getting it into the RV, only the EU1000 might be small enough —

Response:

Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running.  The problem might be getting it into the RV, only the EU1000 might be small enough

The EU2000 isn’t all that much bigger than the EU1000.  The EU3000 is pretty big.  If there an A/C unit in that class B, an EU2000 might not be big enough. Brian Elfert

Response:

Db. is short for decibels and is always expressed as a ratio.  Unless the db. rating is compared to the ambient noise background, it is meaningless. It is still meaningless unless the background noise is known as one could say that their machine is 10 db. when compared to the noise of a 767 jet. Cass

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks Brian, I went to the website. The db level on that model is a very low 58 db under load. Chas I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B. Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running. Brian Elfert

Response:

Db. is short for decibels and is always expressed as a ratio.

Cass, Educate yourself and go to; http://www.sfu.ca/sonic-studio/handbook/Decibel.html

Response:

I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw attention. Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B.

Ours has a 2.8, mounted under the body, in the rear between the frame rails. It’s quiet enough, but certainly not enough not to disturb others in a "quiet" area. We also have a Honda EU3000i at home for emergency backup power. It is miraculously quiet, but I wouldn’t want to haul it around in a Class B and have to load and unload it to use it. For one thing, it would take up way too much room. For another, it’s bulky and heavy (134# dry, IIRC). And for yet another, you’d have to leave it sitting on the ground while it was running. It just might decide to "take a walk." If I were a thief (with a helper), I could have it in the back of a pickup truck and be pulling out of sight before you could pull your pants on and dash outside to see why your a/c suddenly went off…<g GB in NC

Response:

Cass, don’t be so technical. The rating is the same most mfrs. seem to use, that of 10 feet from the unit. Chas

Response:

I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B. Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running. Brian Elfert

The Honda EU models certainly wouldn’t be an option in my opinion.  They would have to be stored inside the rig for travel and they have vented gas tank caps.  They would be very dangerous, as well as sitting in the floor taking up some of the valuable floor walking room.  The MicroLite series mount underneath a Class B and get their fuel from the van’s gas tank.  If you do a search on Class B Generator, you will see this is the choice of all the major manufacturer’s of Class B rigs. Tom J

Response:

The Honda EU models certainly wouldn’t be an option in my opinion.  They would have to be stored inside the rig for travel and they have vented gas tank caps.

They have a little lever on the cap that lets you close the vent.  They’re a good option for TT’s, which generally don’t have a generator compartment. -Jeff Deeney-

Response:

The Honda EU models certainly wouldn’t be an option in my opinion.  They would have to be stored inside the rig for travel and they have vented gas tank caps. They have a little lever on the cap that lets you close the vent.  They’re a good option for TT’s, which generally don’t have a generator compartment.

I have no problem with storing a generator any place but inside a home or RV where it also contains people.  This goes for anything else that contains gasoline.  I saw a neighbors house burn from a lawn ,mower stored in the basement with a leaking fuel line. That has registered on your mine for a long time, and I hope you never see it, and you won’t if you are safe with gasoline operated machinery. Tom J who can just see a gen set flying down the center of a Class B after the panic stop

Response:

Tom, I don’t know who’s RV you are seeing that generator fly down, but it won’t be mine!  I don’t have to bang my head on the wall too many times!! Thanks for the heads up!! Chas

Response:

Tom, I don’t know who’s RV you are seeing that generator fly down, but it won’t be mine!  I don’t have to bang my head on the wall too many times!! Thanks for the heads up!! Chas

Glad I got through to at least one!! Many years of happy camping! Tom J

Response:

I have an EU1000 which I use on my 18′ boat (to run the 6,000 BTU air conditioner). The generator is stored in the cuddy cabin when it’s not needed. The cuddy will sleep 2 and has sitting head room . When my wife and I both sleep aboard, there’s not enough room to make the bed without putting the generator outside, but when I’m alone, the generator stays below with me, less than 18" from my face while I’m sleeping. I’ve never thought to go to the effort of putting it outside when I’m alone because there’s absolutely no smell of gasoline or residual exhaust. For me, that little Honda is the perfect solution! YMMV If I was sure the EU2000 would handle the starting demand of the air conditioner on my TT, I’d buy one in a heartbeat; not hesitating to store it inside the trailer. And did you know, that you can parallel 2 of those little EU Hondas to double the output? Nick in Spartanburg, SC

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I was wondering if there was a consensus as to the quietest generator available for a Class B. I realize there are ordinances, etc. but I would like to be able to plan overnites in areas where a loud genny would draw Most seem to be using Onan MicroLite 2.5 or 2.8 generators in Class B. Although the Onan is reasonably quiet, it probably would not meet the original poster’s requirement.  The Honda EU series is nearly silent.  I was 10 feet from a Honda EU3000 recently and had to walk closer to even realize it was running. Brian Elfert The Honda EU models certainly wouldn’t be an option in my opinion.  They would have to be stored inside the rig for travel and they have vented gas tank caps.  They would be very dangerous, as well as sitting in the floor taking up some of the valuable floor walking room.  The MicroLite series mount underneath a Class B and get their fuel from the van’s gas tank.  If you do a search on Class B Generator, you will see this is the choice of all the major manufacturer’s of Class B rigs. Tom J

Response:

Question:

Heck, for running just a laptop you can get a cute little Vector model that plugs directly into the 12v socket — no cords to deal with. They’re around $20-$22 at Wal-Mart, etc. (in the auto electronics department, usually found between sporting goods and auto parts). GB in NC Do you recall what wattage those are? I might just pick one up at that price for my pop-up as well.

150w surge, 75w for 5 minutes, 60w continuous. I thought it was a "Vector" brand, but apparently it’s Xantrex. I just found one at        http://www.DonRowe.com/inverters/xpower_75.html They want $30 for it, but they’re cheaper at W-M and other places — maybe even Northern. I can’t remember where I’ve seen them, but they’re commonly available at discount places. (That’s about the only place I shop. <g) GB in NC

Response:

Hi, I’m the newest MH owner I know….:-) I just bought a used 1991 Airstream MH yesterday and have not used it yet. I’m getting a ride back to it on the weekend to pick it up from the former owner’s house. It doesn’t have an inverter nor solar panels. I was wondering if the cost of adding one or both of these options is very high. I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. Unfortunately the laptop DC supply is some odd value (like 18V or something like that) so I need to use AC to run it most of the time. I realize solar isn’t related to running the laptop but it seems to be a nice way to charge the batteries in the daytime. I still have the option of just plugging in a portable inverter and using it. Maybe that’ll do for the long term….just don’t know yet as I’ve just bought the RV and it’s my first.

<snip Thanks for any advice.

Dave – Take a look at this site for a good tutorial on 12-volt: http://bart.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volt.htm I too have problems with the voltage on my laptop.  The Sony is labeled 19.5v, so I run one of the inexpensive inverters.  The laptop is old enough it is not worth the cost of a car adapter.

Response:

GB I don’t even use my inverter for the laptop. I have the 12v car plug and just plug it in the TV jack.

Only problem is that most laptop 12v cords cost a heck of a lot more than a low-end inverter. And the inverter can be used for other things, while the computer cord can’t. But whatever works… GB in NC

Response:

GB  what can I say I pay wholesale on pc parts and stuff .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – GB I don’t even use my inverter for the laptop. I have the 12v car plug and just plug it in the TV jack. Only problem is that most laptop 12v cords cost a heck of a lot more than a low-end inverter. And the inverter can be used for other things, while the computer cord can’t. But whatever works… GB in NC

Response:

GB I don’t even use my inverter for the laptop. I have the 12v car plug and just plug it in the TV jack. Only problem is that most laptop 12v cords cost a heck of a lot more than a low-end inverter. And the inverter can be used for other things, while the computer cord can’t. GB in NC GB  what can I say I pay wholesale on pc parts and stuff .

Okay. Lucky you. <g I really meant my comment as a caution that most people would pay more for a 12v laptop cord (with only one use) than for a small inverter (with many potential uses). GB in NC

Response:

In most cases the inverters sold today are O’k for use with laptop, tvs, and other small items.  However some are not suitable since they do not have a sinewave output and may damage electronic equiptment.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. I bought an inexpensive 350 watt inverter for just that purpose. You can get them anywhere from $35 to $65. Heck, for running just a laptop you can get a cute little Vector model that plugs directly into the 12v socket — no cords to deal with. They’re around $20-$22 at Wal-Mart, etc. (in the auto electronics department, usually found between sporting goods and auto parts). If I didn’t already have two other inverters I’d probably buy one. GB in NC

GB I don’t even use my inverter for the laptop.  I have the 12v car plug and just plug it in the TV jack. I also have a cell phone cable that charges my cell off the USB port. Dave

Response:

Heck, for running just a laptop you can get a cute little Vector model that plugs directly into the 12v socket — no cords to deal with. They’re around $20-$22 at Wal-Mart, etc. (in the auto electronics department, usually found between sporting goods and auto parts). If I didn’t already have two other inverters I’d probably buy one. GB in NC

Do you recall what wattage those are? I might just pick one up at that price for my pop-up as well. Tom

Response:

Anne that’s what I want to do,is add a panel just to keep the batteries topped off. http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You will get all sorts of answers reguarding addition of solar panels, depending on what you think your needs are and where you live.  I have two panels, live and the southwest (lots of sunshine). For me they are the only way to go. Actually I have 3, one small one keeps the engine battery charged up just fine. Do some net reading on solar, and then decide.  For my RV the hardest part of the job was feeding the wires from the panels to the controller  and to the storage batteries. If you decide to test thw waters with just one panel, make sure the installer feeds wires through for another panel at that time. Remember that you will not have battery power enough to run an air conditioner.  But I run my laptop, stereo, lights, furnace and an evaporative cooler just fine. Hi, I’m the newest MH owner I know….:-) I just bought a used 1991 Airstream MH yesterday and have not used it yet. I’m getting a ride back to it on the weekend to pick it up from the former owner’s house. It doesn’t have an inverter nor solar panels. I was wondering if the cost of adding one or both of these options is very high. I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. Unfortunately the laptop DC supply is some odd value (like 18V or something like that) so I need to use AC to run it most of the time. I realize solar isn’t related to running the laptop but it seems to be a nice way to charge the batteries in the daytime. I still have the option of just plugging in a portable inverter and using it. Maybe that’ll do for the long term….just don’t know yet as I’ve just bought the RV and it’s my first. "Look out, there’s a new RV driver on the road with NO EXPERIENCE driving a 30 footer." Actually, the thought of new inexperienced RV drivers makes me nervous to think I was sharing the road with some of them. <g Need to get used to driving in the slow lane and letting cars pass and all that stuff… Thanks for any advice.

Response:

I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving.

I bought an inexpensive 350 watt inverter for just that purpose. You can get them anywhere from $35 to $65. I mounted it right next to (not in) the battery compartment. From one outlet I ran an extension cord through the cabinets behind everything, to a regular outlet under the seat by the table. Good place to run the laptop, charge cell phone, camera batteries etc. The wife plugs in a curling iron in the other outlet. (Inverter is in bathroom cabinet) The advantage to a small inverter is that you (she) can’t run energy hogs, thus depleting the battery. My fiver only has room for one battery, so the whole setup works for me. Tom

Response:

I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. I bought an inexpensive 350 watt inverter for just that purpose. You can get them anywhere from $35 to $65.

Heck, for running just a laptop you can get a cute little Vector model that plugs directly into the 12v socket — no cords to deal with. They’re around $20-$22 at Wal-Mart, etc. (in the auto electronics department, usually found between sporting goods and auto parts). If I didn’t already have two other inverters I’d probably buy one. GB in NC

Response:

Hi, I’m the newest MH owner I know….:-) I just bought a used 1991 Airstream MH yesterday and have not used it yet. I’m getting a ride back to it on the weekend to pick it up from the former owner’s house. It doesn’t have an inverter nor solar panels. I was wondering if the cost of adding one or both of these options is very high. I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. Unfortunately the laptop DC supply is some odd value (like 18V or something like that) so I need to use AC to run it most of the time. I realize solar isn’t related to running the laptop but it seems to be a nice way to charge the batteries in the daytime. I still have the option of just plugging in a portable inverter and using it. Maybe that’ll do for the long term….just don’t know yet as I’ve just bought the RV and it’s my first. "Look out, there’s a new RV driver on the road with NO EXPERIENCE driving a 30 footer." Actually, the thought of new inexperienced RV drivers makes me nervous to think I was sharing the road with some of them. <g Need to get used to driving in the slow lane and letting cars pass and all that stuff… Thanks for any advice.

Response:

You can add an 2000 watt inverter for about $200.00. Solor power costs to much to actually use it for anything. Like $600.00 for a 100 watt panel and that’s assuming you get 15 hours of sun a day and live on the equator.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’m the newest MH owner I know….:-) I just bought a used 1991 Airstream MH yesterday and have not used it yet. I’m getting a ride back to it on the weekend to pick it up from the former owner’s house. It doesn’t have an inverter nor solar panels. I was wondering if the cost of adding one or both of these options is very high. I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. Unfortunately the laptop DC supply is some odd value (like 18V or something like that) so I need to use AC to run it most of the time. I realize solar isn’t related to running the laptop but it seems to be a nice way to charge the batteries in the daytime. I still have the option of just plugging in a portable inverter and using it. Maybe that’ll do for the long term….just don’t know yet as I’ve just bought the RV and it’s my first. "Look out, there’s a new RV driver on the road with NO EXPERIENCE driving a 30 footer." Actually, the thought of new inexperienced RV drivers makes me nervous to think I was sharing the road with some of them. <g Need to get used to driving in the slow lane and letting cars pass and all that stuff… Thanks for any advice.

Response:

You will get all sorts of answers reguarding addition of solar panels, depending on what you think your needs are and where you live.  I have two panels, live and the southwest (lots of sunshine). For me they are the only way to go. Actually I have 3, one small one keeps the engine battery charged up just fine. Do some net reading on solar, and then decide.  For my RV the hardest part of the job was feeding the wires from the panels to the controller  and to the storage batteries. If you decide to test thw waters with just one panel, make sure the installer feeds wires through for another panel at that time. Remember that you will not have battery power enough to run an air conditioner.  But I run my laptop, stereo, lights, furnace and an evaporative cooler just fine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, I’m the newest MH owner I know….:-) I just bought a used 1991 Airstream MH yesterday and have not used it yet. I’m getting a ride back to it on the weekend to pick it up from the former owner’s house. It doesn’t have an inverter nor solar panels. I was wondering if the cost of adding one or both of these options is very high. I’m mostly interested in running my laptop off of 120V at night and while I’m driving. Unfortunately the laptop DC supply is some odd value (like 18V or something like that) so I need to use AC to run it most of the time. I realize solar isn’t related to running the laptop but it seems to be a nice way to charge the batteries in the daytime. I still have the option of just plugging in a portable inverter and using it. Maybe that’ll do for the long term….just don’t know yet as I’ve just bought the RV and it’s my first. "Look out, there’s a new RV driver on the road with NO EXPERIENCE driving a 30 footer." Actually, the thought of new inexperienced RV drivers makes me nervous to think I was sharing the road with some of them. <g Need to get used to driving in the slow lane and letting cars pass and all that stuff… Thanks for any advice.

Response:

Question:

We dont "judge" the efficiency….we tell you the rating on the unit….its there.. Good point. I don’t know much about gas, but wouldn’t 60% be awfully low for a 20 year old gas fired unit ? My 20 year old oil unit is rated at 78%, and I always thought of oil as much less efficient. Bob

This is Turtle. I can remember bidding and getting a job required by General contractor the afue was to be 71% afue and nothing less. They did make lesser afue at the time. Don’t ask me what years that was. TURTLE

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Just curious. Anyone ever meet someone who could judge the efficiency of an old furnace? Besides the guy selling a new furnace.

Response:

Yes, simple, you look at the rating plates and do the math. Not that difficult! kjpro

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks Just curious. Anyone ever meet someone who could judge the efficiency of an old furnace? Besides the guy selling a new furnace.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks Just curious. Anyone ever meet someone who could judge the efficiency of an old furnace? Besides the guy selling a new furnace.

Hi…nice to meet you… Now you have met someone that can…. Its a very easy thing to do…you read the plate that tells the rating, and then you tell the homeowner…its quite simple. The rating might not, and probably never will be as simple as "This is a X brand 80% furnace" But it is there, and its nothing but a bit of simple math….failing that, you get the model and serial and look it up. We dont "judge" the efficiency….we tell you the rating on the unit….its there..

Response:

I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

This is turtle. I can not tell you what your saving will be but I can give you info to try to calculate your savings. Now this would be generally speaking and to get exact yopu will have to go to some of the website that get down to the real point. First Cooling cost saving is like this. You have 6 seer and you go to a 12 seer. This is how it goes. for every seer you go up you save 10% less electrcity use. So going from a 6 seer to a 12 seer your should save about 60% less electricity to operate the equipment. This 60% is the percent of your electric use of only the cooling system and not you whole electric bill. .60 X Electric equipment use only = savings on a 6 seer going to a 12 seer. Second Heating cost of going from a 60% aflue gas furnace to a 94% aflue gas furnace will be a 34% savings of only the natural gas / fuel use of the furnace. This will be .34 X Fuel cost only of furnace = savings on a 60% aflue to a 94% aflue furnace. These are general calculations and should be take so. Do the math yourself ! TURTLE

Response:

I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Response:

Dear Wade "Bozo", Just kidding….. Hello, did you read my comment on this thread? Re: electrical wiring in Well as to your question. Where about do you live??? As far as months heating vers months cooling?? Average temps hi and low??? For example the pay-off of a better cooling unit in Florida vers a better furnace in Alaska. And the difference in the price of the units. Not everybody prices the same differences in every home. Do to installation differences. or $500.00 Example : you have a 60 % now 40% ($400) going to waste, New 92% saving of 32% ($320) per year. $320 per yr at 5 yrs. = $1600.00 But at a different location may only use $500.00 a year so you’d save $160.00 per year. $160 per yr at 5 yrs. =$800.00 So, pay off would be different. Price difference between 80 ver 90 %. 10% difference figure out how many yrs. it would take to pay the difference in units. kjpro

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Response:

I have a 20 year old gas furnace and air conditioner. When calculating my payback, they use 60% efficiency for the old furnace and 6.0 seer for the old air conditioner. Without getting too technical, are those likely values for 20 year old equipment? Some of the payback comes from having a 200 watt blower on the new furnace instead of the 700 watt on the old furnace.  Does that sound right?  The brochure on the furnace (Lennox) does not address that. They figure a 7 year payback for a new 12 seer  AC and 94% furnace. thanks

Based on some recent HVAC work at my house, those sound like reasonable values. TB

Response:

Question:

I have a window air conditioner 8000 BTU. How do we clean the machine? Is there any home product we can use? ( like vinager…)? Or specific product? Can I spray water with an hose?

Response:

I have a window air conditioner 8000 BTU. How do we clean the machine? Is there any home product we can use? ( like vinager…)? Or specific product? Can I spray water with an hose?

Most window A/C units come with specific instructions about cleaning. Assuming that you don’t have those I’ll suggest the following… http://www.hvacoracle.com/service/ac/window_pm.html Please pay special attention to the warnings about what parts to cover and how long to wait before putting the unit back in service.  I’d hate to see you get electrocuted. Another note.  The "fins" on the radiator are basically aluminum foil, very easily smashed flat or damaged.  Be VERY careful around them or you’ll ruin your A/C unit. Dutch "I think therefore I am…usually in a lot of trouble."

Response:

I have a window air conditioner 8000 BTU. How do we clean the machine? Is there any home product we can use? ( like vinager…)? Or specific product? Can I spray water with an hose?

Dutch wrote I’ll suggest the following… http://www.hvacoracle.com/service/ac/window_pm.html Please pay special attention to the warnings about what parts to cover and how long to wait before putting the unit back in service.  I’d hate to see you get electrocuted. Another note.  The "fins" on the radiator are basically aluminum foil, very easily smashed flat or damaged.  Be VERY careful around them or you’ll ruin your A/C unit.

Very true. And **very** sharp like razor blades, especially when your hands are wet. Vinegar, 409 or Fantastik would only be useful to clean the exterior, cosmetic parts but do little for the actual functioning of the unit. In many cases special aluminum cleaner or actual steam is used on the condenser coils to get them truly clean. A wire brush and elbow grease can also be necessary to get really caked on debris off. Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=air+conditioner =

Question:

I have a 1999 Accord LX 4 cyl and wonder where the air conditioner filter is that apparently filters air coming in to the car (mine seems OK up to now, 45k).  Most basic repair manuals don’t show how to replace it.  Can a home repair mechanic do this or should it be done by a certified mechanic?  Where actually is the filter?  Thanks.

There are two identical filters, and they’re behind the glove box right next to the core.  Take the right side fuse panel (clips) and the passenger kick panel (3 screws and clips) off, take the glove box out (8 screws, 3 or maybe 4 clips, and the harness from the glove box light), take the dash cross member off (2 screws and a bolt), and remove the cover for the filters (m/f at one end, clip at the other).  Discard the old filters from the frames, insert the new filters, and put the frames back.  Reverse to re-assemble.  It took me about 45 minutes start to finish. And I don’t know where you are, but I wouldn’t do this unless it was at least 50 degrees or so. —

Response:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint00.html Show’s how to do it Gary

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 1999 Accord LX 4 cyl and wonder where the air conditioner filter is that apparently filters air coming in to the car (mine seems OK up to now, 45k).  Most basic repair manuals don’t show how to replace it.  Can a home repair mechanic do this or should it be done by a certified mechanic? Where actually is the filter?  Thanks.

Response:

You wouldn’t know a site that had the instructions for a 95 Accord do you? Thanks, Nick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint00.html Show’s how to do it Gary I have a 1999 Accord LX 4 cyl and wonder where the air conditioner filter is that apparently filters air coming in to the car (mine seems OK up to now, 45k).  Most basic repair manuals don’t show how to replace it.  Can a home repair mechanic do this or should it be done by a certified mechanic? Where actually is the filter?  Thanks.

Response:

I have a 1999 Accord LX 4 cyl and wonder where the air conditioner filter is that apparently filters air coming in to the car (mine seems OK up to now, 45k).  Most basic repair manuals don’t show how to replace it.  Can a home repair mechanic do this or should it be done by a certified mechanic?  Where actually is the filter?  Thanks.  

Response:

Question:

Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning?

… Well, the biggest hole is that you’ll have to build and maintain it yourself. Have you factored this into your costs? Have you really looked at how long these things will run before they break and need repairs? I know for a fact that most big stationary generators use some pretty heavy duty engines and car engines, especially the VW diesels, were well known to have short lifespans. You might examine dual-fueling the setup with two fuel tanks and an automatic transfer valve which would start it on bio-diesel or regular diesel and switch to straight vegetable oil after it’s running and then switch back again a few minutes before it shuts down. This could save you a lot of time, money and effort in refining that waste oil. Anthony

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? … Well, the biggest hole is that you’ll have to build and maintain it yourself. Have you factored this into your costs? Have you really looked at how long these things will run before they break and need repairs? I know for a fact that most big stationary generators use some pretty heavy duty engines and car engines, especially the VW diesels, were well known to have short lifespans.

Good point Anthony,,, especially when the "ol VW engine" comes out of a "junkyard." – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You might examine dual-fueling the setup with two fuel tanks and an automatic transfer valve which would start it on bio-diesel or regular diesel and switch to straight vegetable oil after it’s running and then switch back again a few minutes before it shuts down. This could save you a lot of time, money and effort in refining that waste oil. Anthony

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

Except for the biodiesel component, I read an article in Popular Science (I think) in the 70’s that did exactly this.  The analysis then showed the cost of energy to be about equal to utility supplied power.  The benefit was it could be off-grid.  I’m pretty sure the unit used a VW engine as well.

Response:

Think about this: If a new engine might last 120,000 miles at 60 miles per hour that means the engine runs for 2000 hours well under the 8760 hours per year.  Also running at 60 mph the engine probably was turning at 1500 rpm or about half speed and maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of full load.  Seems like you need a long life engine to start with. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

       A $200 a month payback sounds very optimistic. How did you come up with that? Co-generation schemes, maximizing efficiency by using the heat and hot water as well as the motive power of the engine, are not a new idea. The high cost of fuel and maintenance usually makes this impractical for small applications. Still it is worth some thought. Microturbines are taking over a lot of commercial applications of this sort. See: http://www.polarpowerinc.com/products/generators/cogenset.htm They are still a little expensive for home use.        Rather than an auto diesel engine, why not a small water cooled diesel tractor motor? I think you could more closely match the engine to your load(s) and get much higher efficiency as well as longer engine life. Russian tractors, bought used and rebuilt for best cost/life tradeoff. Even a new Chinese motor might be cheaper than rebuilding your VW motor, although you might find a useable junkyard motor cheaper. I personally wouldn’t use a junkyard motor without going thru it, and overhauling it or rebuilding it. I don’t want to invest time and money installing an engine that won’t last.        I don’t know how much cooling you can expect from an automobile engine driven compressor. Still, they cool 300 sq. ft. (2000 cu. ft.?) RVs on the road. Maybe you could find a larger one from a bus, RV, or marine application. I don’t imagine you can get over 15,000 BTU though, on a stationary application. Perhaps you can with water cooling, running at high speed (3000-5000RPM?). And how many of these They don’t run all of that time, so maybe 1000 hrs. is a reasonable lifetime to expect from one of these.        I’ve given a lot of thought to doing something like this for a completely off grid house. I think I’ll go with geothermal HVAC for the most practical method of cooling. That won’t keep me from trying this on a small scale, tho. I’m accumulating parts and application knowledge, and I’d like to encourage anybody who wants to experiment along these lines. I just don’t think it’s a money making proposition even with free fuel.                                                                  Russ

Response:

Think about this: If a new engine might last 120,000 miles at 60 miles per hour that means the engine runs for 2000 hours well under the 8760 hours per year.  Also running at 60 mph the engine probably was turning at 1500 rpm or about half speed and maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of full load.  Seems like you need a long life engine to start with.

         You’re on the right track re engine longevity. Based on my experience, perhaps I can suggest a revision in your numbers. Your 120,000 miles is corret for 1950+ to 1975, maybe 1985 or so engines. But, with no overdrive, they would have been running at 2400RPM plus. With overdrive, and 1990+ engines, many (1/2?) of them can last 300,000 miles.          I would expect 3000 – 6000 hrs in use as automobile engines. Engines are better made, now. Blueprinted engines, (specs held to minimum tolerences) almost always (in the 60’s) lasted twice as long as factory engines. Now they make every engine to tighter tolerences – who knows how long they can last? I would expect 200,000 – 300,000 miles from most of the engines made today. Please do note that it is possible (blueprint) to rebuild old engines to current tolerences (or better) and drastically extend their life.          Also, with a stationary application, one can optimise the working conditions to suit the application. Perhaps you could triple the life (or better). That puts you in the 15,000 hr. catagory. Running on propane or natural gas can get you to 25,000hrs. Buy a turbine engine if you want to exceed that – 100,000 hrs – 1,000,000hrs , compared to say 2500Hrs- 25,000hrs. for a (automobile, gas) piston engine. Heavy duty diesels are optimized for marine or other use, and can go much higher in hours than a gasoline powered engine. They don’t compete with turbines, except for initial cost.          The important point to realize here is that we are all experimenters. Most of us want to play, like kids with Tonka trucks or Tinkertoys (and play cheap, so we can do it more). There are many applications where this type of thing may well be the low cost (even if you consider it long term) alternative. Really. Especially if you can aquire most of the material free, or close to it.  So, if it costs more than it produces (it certainly will if you count time spent) it’s still FUN. And one can apply the knowledge and experience gained to benefit.          I don’t want to discourage anybody from trying things like this. But, I would like to save you from expecting too much out of it, and maybe re-direct you from wrong alleys. If your name is Tesla, please ignore anything I have said.                                                             Russ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – *Hey, all! * *    I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that *supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed *air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local *Utility. * *    Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) *picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s *plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts). * *    Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van". * *    The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just *under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200. * *    Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in *my reasoning? * * *Thanks! * *Bro. Timothy * Hey, sounds good to me. .. and you might find a low mileage engine that would last for a good while… and if the setup was good and easy to hook up, you could just put another junkyard diesel in after the old one craps out. With an external oil cooler with increased capacity and a large radiator, you might just get alot more hours out of it. And hour meter would get maintence down to a minimum  and a larger pan and good truck type oil filter / air cleaner might help also. the noise would be a problem to an extent but you could also put a clutch and power take off on it to power a water pump. The vegetable oil needs to be heated all the way to the motor and dual fuels will be required. The fuel tank could be on wheels with built in filtering system so you could just pull up and fill it. Cheap way to play,, good luck.. Don

See the following URL for a VW Diesel-powered GenSet. . http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/genset/ Dave Foreman

Response:

Have had a similar thought as well, does anyone know the fuel consumption (litres/hr) of a VW at various loads? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy        A $200 a month payback sounds very optimistic. How did you come up with that? Co-generation schemes, maximizing efficiency by using the heat and hot water as well as the motive power of the engine, are not a new idea. The high cost of fuel and maintenance usually makes this impractical for small applications. Still it is worth some thought. Microturbines are taking over a lot of commercial applications of this sort. See: http://www.polarpowerinc.com/products/generators/cogenset.htm They are still a little expensive for home use.        Rather than an auto diesel engine, why not a small water cooled diesel tractor motor? I think you could more closely match the engine to your load(s) and get much higher efficiency as well as longer engine life. Russian tractors, bought used and rebuilt for best cost/life tradeoff. Even a new Chinese motor might be cheaper than rebuilding your VW motor, although you might find a useable junkyard motor cheaper. I personally wouldn’t use a junkyard motor without going thru it, and overhauling it or rebuilding it. I don’t want to invest time and money installing an engine that won’t last.        I don’t know how much cooling you can expect from an automobile engine driven compressor. Still, they cool 300 sq. ft. (2000 cu. ft.?) RVs on the road. Maybe you could find a larger one from a bus, RV, or marine application. I don’t imagine you can get over 15,000 BTU though, on a stationary application. Perhaps you can with water cooling, running at high speed (3000-5000RPM?). And how many of these They don’t run all of that time, so maybe 1000 hrs. is a reasonable lifetime to expect from one of these.        I’ve given a lot of thought to doing something like this for a completely off grid house. I think I’ll go with geothermal HVAC for the most practical method of cooling. That won’t keep me from trying this on a small scale, tho. I’m accumulating parts and application knowledge, and I’d like to encourage anybody who wants to experiment along these lines. I just don’t think it’s a money making proposition even with free fuel.                                                                  Russ

Response:

Have had a similar thought as well, does anyone know the fuel consumption (litres/hr) of a VW at various loads?

       Rule of thumb for gas engines is 0.5 lbs. per HP per hour. I would think diesel would be a little less, say 0.4lbs./HP/Hr. The generator manufacturers usually publish fuel consumption data. You can probably find a generator similar to what you want to use and estimate from that. As long as you compare engines of about the same size, there shouldn’t be too much difference.                                                              Russ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy        A $200 a month payback sounds very optimistic. How did you come up with that? Co-generation schemes, maximizing efficiency by using the heat and hot water as well as the motive power of the engine, are not a new idea. The high cost of fuel and maintenance usually makes this impractical for small applications. Still it is worth some thought. Microturbines are taking over a lot of commercial applications of this sort. See: http://www.polarpowerinc.com/products/generators/cogenset.htm They are still a little expensive for home use.        Rather than an auto diesel engine, why not a small water cooled diesel tractor motor? I think you could more closely match the engine to your load(s) and get much higher efficiency as well as longer engine life. Russian tractors, bought used and rebuilt for best cost/life tradeoff. Even a new Chinese motor might be cheaper than rebuilding your VW motor, although you might find a useable junkyard motor cheaper. I personally wouldn’t use a junkyard motor without going thru it, and overhauling it or rebuilding it. I don’t want to invest time and money installing an engine that won’t last.        I don’t know how much cooling you can expect from an automobile engine driven compressor. Still, they cool 300 sq. ft. (2000 cu. ft.?) RVs on the road. Maybe you could find a larger one from a bus, RV, or marine application. I don’t imagine you can get over 15,000 BTU though, on a stationary application. Perhaps you can with water cooling, running at high speed (3000-5000RPM?). And how many of these They don’t run all of that time, so maybe 1000 hrs. is a reasonable lifetime to expect from one of these.        I’ve given a lot of thought to doing something like this for a completely off grid house. I think I’ll go with geothermal HVAC for the most practical method of cooling. That won’t keep me from trying this on a small scale, tho. I’m accumulating parts and application knowledge, and I’d like to encourage anybody who wants to experiment along these lines. I just don’t think it’s a money making proposition even with free fuel.                                                                  Russ

Response:

4.52 liters/hr at 100 km/h — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 (212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children. —

Have had a similar thought as well, does anyone know the fuel

consumption (litres/hr) of a VW at various loads?        Rule of thumb for gas engines is 0.5 lbs. per HP per hour. I would think diesel would be a little less, say 0.4lbs./HP/Hr. The generator manufacturers usually publish fuel consumption data. You can probably find a generator similar to what you want to use and estimate from that. As long as you compare engines of about the same size, there shouldn’t be too much difference.                                                              Russ

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy        A $200 a month payback sounds very optimistic. How did you come up with that? Co-generation schemes, maximizing efficiency by using the heat and hot water as well as the motive power of the engine, are not a new idea. The high cost of fuel and maintenance usually makes this impractical for small applications. Still it is worth some thought. Microturbines are taking over a lot of commercial applications of this sort. See: http://www.polarpowerinc.com/products/generators/cogenset.htm They are still a little expensive for home use.        Rather than an auto diesel engine, why not a small water cooled diesel tractor motor? I think you could more closely match the engine to your load(s) and get much higher efficiency as well as longer engine life. Russian tractors, bought used and rebuilt for best cost/life tradeoff. Even a new Chinese motor might be cheaper than rebuilding your VW motor, although you might find a useable junkyard motor cheaper. I personally wouldn’t use a junkyard motor without going thru it, and overhauling it or rebuilding it. I don’t want to invest time and money installing an engine that won’t last.        I don’t know how much cooling you can expect from an automobile engine driven compressor. Still, they cool 300 sq. ft. (2000 cu. ft.?) RVs on the road. Maybe you could find a larger one from a bus, RV, or marine application. I don’t imagine you can get over 15,000 BTU though, on a stationary application. Perhaps you can with water cooling, running at high speed (3000-5000RPM?). And how many of these They don’t run all of that time, so maybe 1000 hrs. is a reasonable lifetime to expect from one of these.        I’ve given a lot of thought to doing something like this for a completely off grid house. I think I’ll go with geothermal HVAC for the most practical method of cooling. That won’t keep me from trying this on a small scale, tho. I’m accumulating parts and application knowledge, and I’d like to encourage anybody who wants to experiment along these lines. I just don’t think it’s a money making proposition even with free fuel.                                                                  Russ

Response:

Forget storage, forget filtering and drip, grease trap is a good idea, but I don’t garden.  (deep mulch)  but – we don’t currently use a washer.  (We haul all water) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? … Well, the biggest hole is that you’ll have to build and maintain it yourself. Have you factored this into your costs? Have you really looked at how long these things will run before they break and need repairs? I know for a fact that most big stationary generators use some pretty heavy duty engines and car engines, especially the VW diesels, were well known to have short lifespans. You might examine dual-fueling the setup with two fuel tanks and an automatic transfer valve which would start it on bio-diesel or regular diesel and switch to straight vegetable oil after it’s running and then switch back again a few minutes before it shuts down. This could save you a lot of time, money and effort in refining that waste oil. Anthony

Response:

The holes in the plan wouldn’t become visable until the vw quit running. What’s wrong with a 24volt wind generator with a grid intertie–hooks right in, and you’ld be selling power to the local pathetic power company when ever you weren’t using it all. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Think about this: If a new engine might last 120,000 miles at 60 miles per hour that means the engine runs for 2000 hours well under the 8760 hours per year.  Also running at 60 mph the engine probably was turning at 1500 rpm or about half speed and maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of full load.  Seems like you need a long life engine to start with. Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

Response:

2 vw diesel’s (about $300 each at local junkyard) one offline, on online. switch over for maintenance. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 (212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The holes in the plan wouldn’t become visable until the vw quit running. What’s wrong with a 24volt wind generator with a grid intertie–hooks right in, and you’ld be selling power to the local pathetic power company when ever you weren’t using it all. Think about this: If a new engine might last 120,000 miles at 60 miles per hour that means the engine runs for 2000 hours well under the 8760 hours per year.  Also running at 60 mph the engine probably was turning at 1500 rpm or about half speed and maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of full load.  Seems like you need a long life engine to start with. Hey, all!     I have something of an idea for building a home power plant that supplies any home electric needs, plus air conditioning, heat, compressed air (if one has a use for it), and excess power to sell back to the local Utility.     Basically, it would consist of a diesel engine (say, an old VW engine) picked up at the junkyard, complete with air conditioner compressor and it’s plumbing, a welder motor/generator, and a Trace SR2455 (or thereabouts).     Oh, also, fueling the engine with waste cooking oil as in "Veggie-Van".     The workups I’ve come up with suggest a total purchase price of just under $5,000, and a monthly return of  a minimum of $200.     Has anybody else come up with this sort of idea?  Where are the holes in my reasoning? Thanks! Bro. Timothy

Response:

Question:

I am a first time buyer of a condominium.  I lived there as a tenant for over 7 years and now I am buying it. I’m looking forward to building equity instead of throwing money away and the tax deductions but am scared to death of any major repairs that might come my way such as plumbing, air conditioner, etc. I’m told that you can buy a Home Warranty (sort of an insurance policy) that will cover any unexpected expenses of homeownership.  I was also told my mortgage broker that most of them are more trouble than they’re worth.  She said they have all kinds of loopholes and hoops you have to go through and usually end up not covering the repairs at all.  She said if I do get one to be sure to study it thouroughly. Does anyone out there have any thoughts on the subject?  Any recommendations of good companies to deal with for this type of product? Thanks.

Response:

I just received an American Home Shield Warranty along with the purchase of a house.  I thought it would be a pretty good thing to have until I received the policy and saw all the things excluded from coverage.  I have serious doubts that these are a good value.  Also, as a condo owner, you may already have some "coverage" via your maintenance fees for some things covered under the home warranty.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a first time buyer of a condominium.  I lived there as a tenant for over 7 years and now I am buying it. I’m looking forward to building equity instead of throwing money away and the tax deductions but am scared to death of any major repairs that might come my way such as plumbing, air conditioner, etc. I’m told that you can buy a Home Warranty (sort of an insurance policy) that will cover any unexpected expenses of homeownership.  I was also told my mortgage broker that most of them are more trouble than they’re worth. She said they have all kinds of loopholes and hoops you have to go through and usually end up not covering the repairs at all.  She said if I do get one to be sure to study it thouroughly. Does anyone out there have any thoughts on the subject?  Any recommendations of good companies to deal with for this type of product? Thanks.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a first time buyer of a condominium.  I lived there as a tenant for over 7 years and now I am buying it. I’m looking forward to building equity instead of throwing money away and the tax deductions but am scared to death of any major repairs that might come my way such as plumbing, air conditioner, etc. I’m told that you can buy a Home Warranty (sort of an insurance policy) that will cover any unexpected expenses of homeownership.  I was also told my mortgage broker that most of them are more trouble than they’re worth. She said they have all kinds of loopholes and hoops you have to go through and usually end up not covering the repairs at all.  She said if I do get one to be sure to study it thouroughly. Does anyone out there have any thoughts on the subject?  Any recommendations of good companies to deal with for this type of product?

Congratulations on your purchase. Hope it serves you well, and that you enjoy having your own place. RE: home warranties. Like any kind of insurance, home warranties are a mixed bag, but could be worth it depending on your situation. It sounds good to have coverage against possible problems in the future, but remember that insurance companies stay in business because they make more money off the premiums than they have to pay out. So a bunch of people are buying peace-of-mind and not getting much else back. But in the right situation, a home warranty is a real value. You usually pay a deductible per service visit ($35-50), so it’s not free. But if your oven goes out or you need a rooter service, you start breaking even pretty quick. Is your condo new, or pretty old? Obviously, the older things are, the more likely you are to need covered services. And remember, things like refrigerators, washers, and dryers are either not covered or are an additional charge. Be prepared for them to resist your claims. Even though most of these warranties supposedly cover replacement on things like furnaces, dishwashers, built-in cooktops, etc, I’ve never heard of a case where they just replaced it without trying to offer cash at a lower amount than the appliance would cost. They can also deny claims on items that are incorrectly installed. It’s all part of the game. If they are courteous, helpful, and pay without any hassle, let us all know, as I think many of us would welcome that kind of service.

Response:

We had an American Home shield warranty on our first house and had to make 2 claims.  One was for the timer on the dishwasher and the other was for the AC freezing up.  Both were dealt with quickly and professionaly.  In fact because my wife was pregnant at the time they expidited the AC repair and someone was there on Sunday to get it fixed!  Just keep in mind that you do have to pay a fee for the service call; $35 three years ago.  I would get a warranty again on another used house. Hope this helps, Thomas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am a first time buyer of a condominium.  I lived there as a tenant for over 7 years and now I am buying it. I’m looking forward to building equity instead of throwing money away and the tax deductions but am scared to death of any major repairs that might come my way such as plumbing, air conditioner, etc. I’m told that you can buy a Home Warranty (sort of an insurance policy) that will cover any unexpected expenses of homeownership.  I was also told my mortgage broker that most of them are more trouble than they’re worth.  She said they have all kinds of loopholes and hoops you have to go through and usually end up not covering the repairs at all.  She said if I do get one to be sure to study it thouroughly. Does anyone out there have any thoughts on the subject?  Any recommendations of good companies to deal with for this type of product? Thanks.

Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

tes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, After reading the group for some time I decided to install the K&N air filter. Well after visiting two part stores in my area that had the wrong filter listed for my model I am supposed to get it this afternoon…. Acording to K&N technical support at phone : 909-684-9762 1997 Ford Explorer with OHV V-6 the correct part number is E-0996 (cannister type air filter) The part listed in the books and computers at the major auto part stores is E-0995.. It looks like it should fit, but it is ~1 inch too long for the stock airbox.

Response:

Okay, After reading the group for some time I decided to install the K&N air filter. Well after visiting two part stores in my area that had the wrong filter listed for my model I am supposed to get it this afternoon…. Acording to K&N technical support at phone : 909-684-9762 1997 Ford Explorer with OHV V-6 the correct part number is E-0996 (cannister type air filter) The part listed in the books and computers at the major auto part stores is E-0995.. It looks like it should fit, but it is ~1 inch too long for the stock airbox.

I also had a similar problem with my ‘98 Sport….K&N is supposed to be recifying the problem

Response:

Okay, After reading the group for some time I decided to install the K&N air filter. Well after visiting two part stores in my area that had the wrong filter listed for my model I am supposed to get it this afternoon…. Acording to K&N technical support at phone : 909-684-9762 1997 Ford Explorer with OHV V-6 the correct part number is E-0996 (cannister type air filter)

Part II: Installed the K&N, topped off the fuel tank and drove around all week… the K& N from the factory does not need to be oiled before its first installation,  as it is already presoaked and sealed in a heavy poly bag. Installation was open clamp, lift off air intake, take out old filter, put in new and resecure.. the guy at Dirty Parts in Culver City said that he had one on every one of his cars and trucks including his wife’s Ford Taurus and that it woud make a big difference. 1. No check engine light, did not need to reset the computer.. 2. Subjectively : the engine spool up is smoother, also seems to be revving slightly slower at a given speed … I can’t accurately tell if there is difference in the tachomenter, but it "feels" that way. In the past from the first day of ownership, around town driving in Southern California has not varied more than 16.6 ~16.8 MPG with the A/C and defroster off in normal traffic. With the air conditioner and or the defroster cycling on and off aroung town, including freeway is  ~12.8 MPG After installing the K&N (drop in filter only..) This first tank of gas turned out to be mixed mode driving with the A/C and defroster both being used within the week. Also a couple of Gallons =17.22 MPG Your Mileage WILL vary…

Response:

Okay, After reading the group for some time I decided to install the K&N air filter. Well after visiting two part stores in my area that had the wrong filter listed for my model I am supposed to get it this afternoon…. Acording to K&N technical support at phone : 909-684-9762 1997 Ford Explorer with OHV V-6 the correct part number is E-0996 (cannister type air filter) The part listed in the books and computers at the major auto part stores is E-0995.. It looks like it should fit, but it is ~1 inch too long for the stock airbox.

Response:

Question:

I recently purchased at Coleman Powermate 5000 Generator to be used in the event of a Power Outage.  I plan to run the generator in my attached garage beside the garage door.  At present I would have to leave the garage door open approx. one foot to allow the generator’s exhaust to go outside.  I was wondering if I could use some kind of a flexible tubing to attach to the muffler so I could run in under the garage door which then would only have to be open approx. 2 inches. The Generator is powered by a Briggs and Stratton 10 HP Aircooled Motor. The standard muffler is approx. 3" in diameter.  Would adding tubing to the muffler do any harm to the engine.?? Bill

Response:

I recently purchased at Coleman Powermate 5000 Generator to be used in the event of a Power Outage.  I plan to run the generator in my attached garage beside the garage door.  At present I would have to leave the garage door open approx. one foot to allow the generator’s exhaust to go outside.  I was wondering if I could use some kind of a flexible tubing to attach to the muffler so I could run in under the garage door which then would only have to be open approx. 2 inches. The Generator is powered by a Briggs and Stratton 10 HP Aircooled Motor. The standard muffler is approx. 3" in diameter.  Would adding tubing to the muffler do any harm to the engine.?? Bill The best suggestion that I can make is to visit some of the Car Garages in the area. Some have setups that allow them to cover one (or Both) of the exhaust pipes and duct them to the outside during cold weather. Now for personal experience, I tried something similar using a 6KW honda generator. What I did was to attatch a 3 foot length of flexible steel tubing from the muffler ( it just fit over the muffler, and I used a hose clamp to tighten firmly around the muffler itself) and the flex tubing then went to a 35 foot length of old oil well drill casing that was 4 inches in diameter. The generator worked great for about 2 minutes, but the exhaust could not be forced out of the pipe fast enough. So, at the end of the well casing, I installed an electrical fan than created a partial suction by making a box that had two inlets, one for exhaust, and one for fresh air. The fan that I used was an old one out of a central air conditioner. This arrangement has worked for about 8 months now, and there problems have not arisen (yet). There was a problem with the fan getting hot due to the small amount of exhaust moving through it, but then I made a second hole in the fanbox for a fresh air intake. I guess it allowed more air to cool the fan motor. Yo probably will not have to go through as many troubles as I did, if you don

Question:

  Here is some food for thought when it comes to high end car stereo items.   First, they’re always listened to/tested in the sound rooms of stores. You sit in a comfy chair, exactly centered between the speakers; you can close your eyes; shut off your mind from the world and listen to what admittedly is a great sound. Well, after spending a couple of K, you install the stuff in your car. And voile, you start to wonder where all sound quality went. You now have road noise working to filter the sound quality, engine/transmission  noise,air conditioner fans,  noise from passengers, other cars, construction etc. You can’t close your eyes and drown out the world now. You can seat in your gararge, turn off the engine, close the door, and the sound quality does return but that hardly counts.  Rather then spend an excessive amount on a car stereo, why not buy a decent one for the car , but save your money for a really first rate home stereo system (this can run you 5 to 20K but that’s another issue). Safe Motorings, Jim (own or have owned Blaupunkt and Bose car audio stuff)

Response:

Here is some more food for thought… Before you go out and spend any amount of money on your stereo system, turn off the stereo in your car and then drive around with the windows up.  Listen for tire noise, engine noise, road noise, wind noise, rattles, etc.  IMHO, sound deadening your car should be the first step in designing a car audio system. The quieter your car, the more MUSIC you will hear.  And enjoying MUSIC, well the thats the whole purpose of having a sound system in your car.         Also, it isn’t necessary to spend thousands of dollars for a great system. One of the best 12" subs on the market today only cost $99(HSU ASW1201, www.hsuresearch.com).  Some of the best components and co-axils can be had for very cheap(Audax, Morel, Vifa, www.madisound.com).  To me, what I just listed is what I consider "high end", and they won’t break your budget by far(some of the best tweeters I have ever heard are the Vifa D26NC-05 1" tweeter and they are only $28.60 each).  Sure there is MB Quart(I actually use Quarts in my own system), Boston Accoustics, Dynaudio, etc.  But let your ears decide and not a magazine advertisement or a some people on the internet decide what goes in YOUR car. Austin   Here is some food for thought when it comes to high end car stereo items.   First, they’re always listened to/tested in the sound rooms of stores. You sit in a comfy chair, exactly centered between the speakers; you can close your eyes; shut off your mind from the world and listen to what admittedly is a great sound. Well, after spending a couple of K, you install the stuff in your car. And voile, you start to wonder where all sound quality went. You now have road noise working to filter the sound quality, engine/transmission  noise,air conditioner fans,  noise from passengers, other cars, construction etc. You can’t close your eyes and drown out the world now. You can seat in your gararge, turn off the engine, close the door, and the sound quality does return but that hardly counts.  Rather then spend an excessive amount on a car stereo, why not buy a decent one for the car , but save your money for a really first rate home stereo system (this can run you 5 to 20K but that’s another issue). Safe Motorings, Jim (own or have owned Blaupunkt and Bose car audio stuff)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Here is some food for thought when it comes to high end car stereo items.   First, they’re always listened to/tested in the sound rooms of stores. You sit in a comfy chair, exactly centered between the speakers; you can close your eyes; shut off your mind from the world and listen to what admittedly is a great sound. Well, after spending a couple of K, you install the stuff in your car. And voile, you start to wonder where all sound quality went. You now have road noise working to filter the sound quality, engine/transmission  noise,air conditioner fans,  noise from passengers, other cars, construction etc. You can’t close your eyes and drown out the world now. You can seat in your gararge, turn off the engine, close the door, and the sound quality does return but that hardly counts.  Rather then spend an excessive amount on a car stereo, why not buy a decent one for the car , but save your money for a really first rate home stereo system (this can run you 5 to 20K but that’s another issue).

Well… 2K is not all that much.  In fact, if you want to do a half-way decent system, that’s how much it’s going to cost. Imagine a in-dash CD with a changer in the trunck.  This combo will cost at least $500.  Front speakers are perhaps the most important component of the sound system, so spending $300 and up for a pair of good component speakers is well justified. For subs, you might go with one or two drivers, housed in a pre-built or custom-fab box.  Prices begin at about $150 for a single 10" sub in a simple sealed box of decent quaility. Next comes the amps.  I guess if you didn’t care for a sound system that can double as a pain generator, you can spend about $500 for two solid amps or one good 4 channel amp with good power. Add in another $150 for interconnects, power wire, battery hardware, fuse holders, power distribution blocks, speaker wire and other various odds and ends necessary to perform the installation.  So far, you are at $1600 without cost of installation, which will make the total dangerously close to $2000 if figured in. There is really no point in putting ultra-high quality compoents in cars.  That’s why high end out-board DACs, EQs, and ultra-high end amplifiers only show up in competition vehicles and company show cars. Clean source, clean amplification, and clean drivers, these are the necessary components to a good sound system. Safe Motorings, Jim (own or have owned Blaupunkt and Bose car audio stuff)

– Lee Cao – http://www.leecao.com/      READ THE FAQs BEFORE YOU ASQs    /  = http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/ =  /    http://tutorials.jlaudio.com/    

Response:

<… Rather then spend an excessive amount on a car stereo, why not buy a decent one for the car , but save your money for a really first rate home stereo system (this can run you 5 to 20K but that’s another issue).

        $20k is not by far a maximum, mind you… high-end speakers can         easily set you back far more than a Ferrari (or two) would,         good amplifiers (pre- & power-) aren’t cheap and spending         a 6-figure sum in a turntable isn’t a problem.         (…and someone thought I’m a bit crazy when I freshened up my         #2 system with JMlab Alcor speakers and a Michell GyroDec         turntable last year -Henri —      #  Nissan Skyline GT-R ; ‘71 Corvette LS-6 ; GMC Typhoon ; etc…#      CAUTION: Before engaging mouth make sure that the brain is in gear.

Response:

Here is some more food for thought… Before you go out and spend any amount of money on your stereo system, turn off the stereo in your car and then drive around with the windows up.  Listen for tire noise, engine noise, road noise, wind noise, rattles, etc.  IMHO, sound deadening your car should be the first step in designing a car audio system. The quieter your car, the more MUSIC you will hear.  And enjoying MUSIC, well the thats the whole purpose of having a sound system in your car.

Well, the same argument can be extrapolated to cover air conditioning noise in homes, as well as traffic and overhead air planes.  But I do agree that it is good to start with a solid foundation on which to build a system.         Also, it isn’t necessary to spend thousands of dollars for a great system. One of the best 12" subs on the market today only cost $99(HSU ASW1201, www.hsuresearch.com).  Some of the best components and co-axils can be had for very cheap(Audax, Morel, Vifa, www.madisound.com).  To me, what I just listed is what I consider "high end",

Those are good quality drivers, and they are definitely good in a budget system.  But I have no doubt that better drivers exist in aboundance. and they won’t break your budget by far(some of the best tweeters I have ever heard are the Vifa D26NC-05 1" tweeter and they are only $28.60 each).  Sure there is MB Quart(I actually use Quarts in my own system), Boston Accoustics, Dynaudio, etc.  But let your ears decide and not a magazine advertisement or a some people on the internet decide what goes in YOUR car.

You are now talking about an entirely different sub-culture of high end sound.  I am sure that if people knew that you can easily duplicate the sound of a $5000 pair of speakers if you build it yourself with $1000 worth of parts, a lot more of us would be building our own speakers. And as much as I like building my own component speakers (I built the last one I had with great results), I feel that it is a very bad idea to recommend someone who is unfamiliar with complex crossover design to attempt to build their own component speakers with such versatile drivers as the Vifa D26NC-05.  (although my personal opinion is that the Vifa is second-rate compared to a good Focal or Dynaudio tweeter, but that’s beside the point).  Just the mathematics involved in picking out Capacitance and Inductance values for a simple 12dB/octave crossover will befuddle most people. Austin

– Lee Cao – http://www.leecao.com/      READ THE FAQs BEFORE YOU ASQs    /  = http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/ =  /    http://tutorials.jlaudio.com/    

Response:

   I’ve become interested in adding a really good sound system for my car. I was just wondering what brand you guys recommend for speakers and subs.    Also does anyone have any Input on "Kicker’s" speakers and subs? They seem to have won quite a few awards for their product. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

I really can’t say anything about different products, but here are my suggestions. One, order the free catalogue from www.crutchfield.com.  They tell you all the sizes that fit your vehicle. Second, I suggest lurking and posting in rec.audio.car. Other than a few morons, it’s a rather decent group.  When I asked for info on that group (on getting started) here are the links that I received – http://www.teamrocs.com http://tutorials.jlaudio.com http://www.mobileaudio.com (The r.a.c faq) http://www.andysaudio.com http://hem.passagen.se/gute. Also, the best magazine I have found is Car Stereo Review.  It focuses a lot more on sound for rock and symphonic music.  Make sure you check out the types of subs/head units/speakers for the type of system you want to build. If you want a lot of bass, they recommend one thing, if you want a lot of highs and mids, there’s another set of stuff.  I’m thinking about doing a system that’s set up for classic rock/punk/ska/symphonic(orchestral), so if that’s the kind of system you’re thinking of, I can give you a bit of info.

Response:

Kicker makes very good car audio gear!  To the guy that said that Kicker was "dirt cheap"… I’d like to know where you got that idea from.  Anyway, the Kicker Solobarics are great subs.  You can put them in a very small sealed enclosure.  But, they need a ton of power.  The Competition series is also good.  They need an average sized box, but require much less power and cost much less.  If you’re looking for a set of component speakers (midrange / tweeter), check out a set of Kicker Resolutions.  They sound great!  Kicker even makes great amps!  Check out the ZR and ZX series amps. And don’t forget about MTX.  MTX Thunder amps are among the best… hell, the best car audio amps ever!  Also, be sure to check out the Thunder5000 and 7000 subs! Check out rec.audio.car for everything you need to know! Later, Marcus 5th Generation Civic Performance http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/9041/civic.html

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    I’ve become interested in adding a really good sound system for my car. I was just wondering what brand you guys recommend for speakers and subs.         Recently I’ve used mostly Focal, Dynaudio and Soundstream speakers,         depending on the application. I’m particularly fond of Focal’s         Mistral-series (eh… personal preference; I also like JMlab home         speakers as far as sound quality is concerned.         The installation is also at least as important as the sound quality         of the speakers themselves; it’s too easy to get a piss-poor sound         from even the best speakers by not doing everything properly.         Anyway, the system should be chosen carefully – a head unit to suit         your needs, crossover(s), amplifier(s) and speakers; what’s needed,         what goes where and how etc.         If you haven’t done this before or if you’re not 100% confident in         doing this, trust a professional. I’ve seen way too many incredibly         crappy installations and mismatched combinations to encourage         anyone to try to do everything himself.    Also does anyone have any Input on "Kicker’s" speakers and subs? They seem to have won quite a few awards for their product. Any info will be greatly appreciated.         Hmm… I haven’t heard much good about Kicker products, other than         that they’re dirt cheap.

Dirt cheap?  Not when a couple of 10" subs run $500. Their Free-air and competition series, while inexpensive, are definitely not cheap.  They are more than capable of sounding great when installed in the correct box.  A whole generation of highend auto sound competition relied on them.  And there are still quite a few of them being used in really good systems.         All in all, some brands that I can recommend, in addition to the         ones mentioned earlier might be something like: Nakamichi, Infinity,         JBL, RCF, Adcom (amps), McIntosh, Alpine and Phoenix Gold.

Ok are you talking about just drivers or car audio in general? Nakamichi used to make killer decks, very high end.  But I think they were bought by someone and now they sell $200 home audio receivers.  I wouldn’t trust an audio company like that. Their focus has shifted.  Infinity and JBL?  Come on, Circuit City and Best Buy grade stuff.  Average at best…  If I had to buy something at Circuit City or Best Buys, I might pick Polk Audio… but that’s about it…  I have no idea who RCF is.  Adcom amps are really nice but expensive.  And one could argue that the extra clarity and low noise floor is a moot point in a noisy environment such as an automobile.  Besides, with quality amps that sound just as good but cost much less, such as the Phoenix Gold (Rockford Fosgate, PPI and MTX also comes to mind), there is really no point in buying an Adcom, unless you really really wanted one.  The same argument can be applied to McIntosh, though I guess there is an extra prestige factor involved with owning a McIntosh amp… and the dual analog power meter is ultra-cool too.  Alpine used to be top notch.  Then they started appearing in Circuit City. My head unit preference has since shifted to Clarion Pro Audio.  Although Alpine’s newer amps, when chosen carefully, are getting pretty nice… comparable to PPI’s old Sedona and Rockford Fosgate’s old Series 1 amps.  Perhaps the only Japanese amp I would ever consider putting in my car.  Their speakers are still junk.  Can’t argue with Phoenix Gold…         Just remember to stay away from the lower-end stuff as you’ll get         what you pay for – or even less than that.

I hope you don’t consider Kicker speakers to be low end stuff.  Wut the original poster should stay away from are those really seedy brands, like JBC, Targa, Urban Audio Works, BOSS Audio, Pyramid, Rockwood, Kenford… etc… -Henri —      #  Nissan Skyline GT-R ; ‘71 Corvette LS-6 ; GMC Typhoon ; etc…#      CAUTION: Before engaging mouth make sure that the brain is in gear.

– Lee Cao – http://www.leecao.com/      READ THE FAQs BEFORE YOU ASQs    /  = http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/ =  /    http://tutorials.jlaudio.com/    

Response: